1968 Mustang Fastback Build - Project Generation Gap

We were really hoping to be able to produce separate stories on the major metal repairs, but our '68 needed so much work and we were only going to be on site for a week that it ended up being a free for all, with each person just working on something to make progress. For starters, Ramon and Lee began on the right rocker panel replacement by drilling out the numerous spot welds, both inside and outside the shell.

Ramon used a standard metal cutting torch to trim back the floorpan so that the floor sheetmetal wouldn't interfere with the new rocker assembly fitment. We're replacing the floor anyway, so it wasn't an issue.

The old rocker was cut out in sections until the complete rocker assembly was freed. The job would be a little different depending upon whether the floorpan and/or quarter-panel is being replaced or not at the time. Notice, too, the large amount of dirt, clay, rust, and debris from inside the rail, now on the floor.

The new rocker assembly from Dynacorn is fitted to the body. You'll notice here that any metal that was drilled through to remove the old rail has been ground down and cleaned up to ensure a good solid weld when the time comes to secure the new rocker permanently. Some metal repair jobs are not for the faint of heart and a Mustang rocker panel is one of them. If you plan to try your hand at metal repairs, start with something small and easy like a taillight panel or inner fender apron.

With the new right-side rocker assembly tacked into place on the inside of the shell, Ramon begins the task of cutting out the rusty floorpan. He removes the pan in small sections, being careful not to cut through anything we'll reuse. Note in the picture, too, that bracing has been added to the car. The more you cut into a body shell, the more support you'll need to keep everything straight during your work. Panels will move and you'll be fighting all sorts of alignment issues if you don't. A tape measure is a good tool here. Record all measurements before cutting.

While Ramon worked on the floorpan part of the project, Len whipped out the reciprocating saw and made our '68 three feet shorter by cutting off the complete engine compartment "box" in about 5 minutes. Why did we do this, you might be asking?

Well, we had one bad framerail, rusty toe boards, improperly braced rusty shock towers, and poorly installed/patched inner fender aprons. Not to mention we would be losing the shock towers anyway to make room for our Heidt's Superide II front suspension setup. Ray felt it would actually be faster if we simply installed two new front framerails and new inner aprons.

The left rocker assembly was in solid shape, only needing a few pinholes welded shut. Ramon ground away all of the rough metal and spot weld remnants on the inside of the rocker, preparing it for the new one piece floorpan from Dynacorn.

We've used the Dynacorn one piece replacement floorpans in the past and we must say they are the easiest option when it comes to floorpan metal replacement. Ramon and Jesse fit the new Dynacorn floor into place between the rockers and use self tapping screws to temporarily hold the floor in place while multiple measurements are taken to ensure the floor is in the right position (always take plenty of measurements before cutting away the old metal).

With Ramon and Jesse busy inside the car prepping the floorpan for final welding, Ray begins work on the exterior of the coupe, trimming away the major sheetmetal areas that will be replaced during the fastback conversion. These include the rear quarter skins and the roof skin. An air chisel makes quick work of the panels.

Lee finished up the two toe board installations just as Jesse and Ramon were ready to start welding in the floorpan. Notice the toe boards are fully butt welded. The guys at Drake Customs don't mess around and do the job right. A little grinding of the welds and they'll be good to go.

The completed floorpan installation gives us our first glimpse at real progress with new metal. The one piece floor actually saves labor time since there is less welding to be done. The old full-length individual pans required butt welding along their entire length, where the one piece floor is simply plug welded every few inches, just like the factory spot welds.