Project Snake Charmer, Part 18 - Interior And Trim Install

The Le Mans-style fuel cap included with the Roadster kit is designed to use the stock late-model Mustang fuel-filler neck and fuel cap. For simpler refueling, we opted to use this Stant InStant Fill fuel cap (no need to remove the screw cap under the Le Mans cap). We called upon the crew at SoFast Racing [www.sofastracing.com; (541) 928-5858] to perform their stud-welding technique on our Le Mans cap for a stealthy, hidden-mounting configuration that will keep the top side of the Le Mans cap looking clean.

When it came to installing the FFR supplied 2-inch rollbar assembly, the instructions called for drilling a hole and using a cross-bolt in double-shear to attach the rear down tube to the main hoop. The idea of a through bolt, even in stainless, wasn't thrilling to us, so out came the credit card again for a blind rollbar attachment kit from Tangent Technologies (www.tangentkits.com). This kit is akin to the handle-bar clamp on a bicycle, and uses a wedge-lock clamp inside the down tube. It's super clean and still secure.

The body openings where the rollbar passes through used simple rubber gaskets on the real deal. But we wanted to bling it up a bit, so we added these polished aluminum trim rings from Mike's Replica Parts to all three openings. They come complete with gaskets and attaching screws, and they're clearcoated for durability.

The original Powered By Ford emblems worn by the 289 and 427 Cobras are available in reproduction from several sources. Once again, to add a modern touch and some personalization, we opted for these great-looking fender badges found on the Shelby GT Mustang. We can't tell you where we scored them, but we have seen them for sale on eBay.

We bonded these aluminum mounting brackets to the back side of the body to attach the side louvers. We had purchased new louvers from Finish Line because we had accidently thrown away the stock ones. They can be attached to the mounting brackets via bolts, rivets, adhesive, or, as in our case, with industrial-strength Velcro.

Most real Cobras have body-colored louvers, but we painted ours the color of the stripes for a slight contrast.

The replica license-plate light assembly requires some additional wiring before mounting to the decklid. Two lengths of wire were soldered to the lamp terminals and then routed through the decklid cavity to the body harness.

The decklid access is normally left open, but we found this great aluminum cover plate from Dark Water Customs [www.darkwatercustoms.com; (512) 506-8979]. It simply rivets over the opening and makes for a clean-looking trunk.

Another product we found on the Dark Water Customs site was this front splash shield for rear-wheel openings. These nifty shields cover the gap between the body and frame, and prevent tire splash from entering the cockpit.