Vinnie Kung
February 26, 2015

ProCharger offers a few variations of its centrifugal supercharger kit, which is known to add serious power to just about any car it is installed on. The High Output (HO) kit is where the action begins. Using ProCharger’s excellent P-1SC-1 head unit and a nice-sized front-mounted intercooler, this kit provides gobs of boost all day long. Moving up to the Stage II kit adds a larger intercooler, a bigger air filter, and new pulleys for more boost. Since we wanted the most from our car, we went for the big-dog Stage II kit in complete form for BYOB (ProCharger also offers these two kits in Tuner versions, where the 52-pound injectors and programming are excluded so that independent shop owners can create their own packages.)

To get a nice sound out of the car, we elected to get the standard sound level from the blower (where the helical gears make a subtle and smooth whine at idle) and combined it with the quieter eight-rib belt drive instead of the 12-rib or more obvious cog-belt-drive setup for our street car. ProCharger advertises an aggressive 185-plus horsepower gain on a stock Coyote, and we were anxious to see if this would be true for a car that’s digesting the 91-octane swill that California likes to call high-octane.

BYOB is at it again! This time it sees a ProCharger being added under the hood. We discover huge power gains on the dyno.
ProCharger’s Stage II kit includes a massive air-to-air intercooler that works in conjunction with the P-1SC-1 supercharger. For BYOB we went with the polished finish and standard eight-rib belt setup. Also included is an SCT programmer with ProCharger’s tune installed and ready for upload.

The installation took one day. The Stage II’s large race intercooler fits 2013-2014 models without any modifications, but on 2011-2012 models, like BYOB, installation required the lower portion of the bumper cover to have about 2 inches removed from the lower half’s backside. It cuts into the black textured bumper insert as well, and you’ll have to eliminate the driving lights, like we did. This added about two hours to the installation, but overall we were done in six hours. We even had time to put fresh oil in, so we poured in Royal Purple HPS oil in the factory weight of 5W20 to make sure that our big bad 5.0 was properly lubed internally.

With the hard parts all installed and the canned tune uploaded from the SCT handheld programmer, we moseyed on over to our friends at GTR High Performance in Rancho Cucamonga, California. Once there, GTR’s Ricardo Topete had the DynoJet’s 224X spinning and we were soon rubbing our hands with excitement.

On the first run, we decided to start off with the default 4.38-inch supercharger pulley, which came with the kit. Using Fourth gear, we were able to see 5.31 psig (pounds per square inch gauge) of boost and an amazing 556.00 rwhp at 6,950 rpm and 440.62 lb-ft of torque at 5,200 rpm. These were all using true SAE correction factors for the weather. Considering how low the boost was, we were stoked at what we saw. ProCharger’s in-house tuning guru Erik Radzins was on hand to gather data as we personally witnessed that there were no changes to the tune and that it was the same canned tune that came with the kit. Radzins later confirmed that at that boost level, no knock retard was detected and the power was indeed purely uninterrupted on mere pump gas.

Next up, we slapped on the smaller 4.00-inch pulley to increase the supercharger’s speed. Knowing that Coyotes love to be revved, Radzins wanted to see what would happen if we increased the rev limiter to 7,300 rpm, to find out how the ProCharger would react. That’s because like the Coyote engine, ProChargers love rpm. So we threw connecting rod caution to the wind on the next run and raised the rev limiter. We didn’t let the car cool down, since we wanted real power numbers, and with the eight-rib belt gripping for dear life, Topete spun the DynoJet to the tune of 593.68 rwhp at 6,900 and an astonishing 462.92 lb-ft of torque at the wheels with a peak boost level of a modest 8.28 psig. Peak power came in at nearly the same rpm as before (save 50 revs) but was still under the factory rev limiter. To avoid windowing a motor, we decided to put the stock rev limiter back in, keep the power at under 600 to the tire, and run the best pump gas was can find.

Based on our stock figures (79.53 rwhp at 6,500 rpm and 364.62 lb-ft of rear-wheel torque at 4,350 rpm) on this exact same dyno, it means we added a staggering 214.15 peak horsepower and 98.30 lb-ft of torque at the tires at 8.28 pounds of boost. This shattered ProCharger’s claimed gain of 185-plus horsepower. Looking back at the numbers from the pulley that produced an easy 5.31 pounds of boost, those gains were also incredible, with a 176.47hp bump and 76.00 lb-ft more torque to the ground.

Adding items like a ProCharger kit not only brings back memories but also makes new ones. Few cars can cross generations as much as our Mustang can. While your uncle is waxing his 1970 Boss 302, you can literally do the same with a newer version of that same Boss. Just add boost to a 5.0, and time travel is almost possible.

01. The P-1SC-1 head unit featured a unique billet impeller that not only looks trick but also adds power due to its precise tolerances. I don’t know about you, but for some odd reason I want to see the CNC machinery that created this thing!

02. ProCharger’s large race intercooler is a true beaut. Featuring large cross-sectional area, the core is the secret to sustainable power gains. Note that the mass air sensor bolts to the end tank here, which is on the passenger side. According to Erik Radzins of ProCharger, this is because they discovered that having it here, rather than on one of the charge tubes, provides less fluctuation in values and makes for a more consistent reading during all throttle positions. The biggest benefit, he says, is having a signal that is more stable for tuning.

03. With the front bumper cover removed, we can get right to business.

04. We started with the injectors. Remove the entire fuel rail with a 10mm socket and carefully disconnect the fuel feed line. Swap out the stockers for the 52-pound units provided by ProCharger, and reinstall the rail with the provided hardware. Because its injectors are the short-body version of the EV6s, you will need to use ProCharger’s shorter fuel rail risers and bolts as well.

05. The crankshaft pulley bolt comes off next to allow for the installation of the ProCharger’s pulley. Using an 18mm impact socket, we “cranked’ the bolt off with little fuss.

06. ProCharger uses a dedicated belt-drive system for its kits. That means the stock belt continues to drive the accessories and a separate piggyback pulley spins the blower. On the backside of the ProCharger pulley you can see the adjustable eccentrics that, once in place, butt up against the factory pulley’s spokes for positive engagement. Use the supplied crank bolt and, uh, crank it down.

07. The factory fan setup doesn’t clear the large intercooler piping, so a custom fan shroud and SPAL fan are provided. The male spade connectors fit right into BYOB’s female fan connectors, minding the red-on-red, black-on-black connections. A large glob of electric tape was spun around this connection, ensuring a safe and well-insulated junction.

08. Once the electrical connection was made, we dropped the fan and shroud assembly into place, aligning the lower tabs to the factory radiator and reusing the stock upper bolts to rigidly mount it.

09. Next up, we installed the ProCharger-supplied coolant surge tank. A neatly fabricated piece, this tank fits nicely onto the new shroud and reuses most of the factory hose connections.

10. To mount the supercharger bracket onto the front of the engine, threaded standoffs are supplied that go onto the factory alternator mounting stud, the belt idler pulley, and a vacant hole on the cylinder head.

11. The easiest way to install the blower is to assemble the head unit to the bracket and then to lower the entire assembly as a complete unit. Once in place, the three standoffs and bolts were tightened with a 1/2-inch socket.

12. The intercooler assembly comes next. Since we went with the Stage II kit, the intercooler was as big as it could possibly be. This core took up nearly all of the available real estate behind the bumper support and was just millimeters away from the A/C system’s condenser. The mounting tabs and bracket attach directly to the hood latch bolts.

13. Next up, we routed the intercooler piping. This was trickier than expected. After about an hour of trial fitting, we shaved approximately a half-inch off of each silicone and/or rubber connector to make everything snug.

14. The blowoff valve is mounted inside the driver-side bumper cavity. We had to move the horns slightly out of the way to make the extra room, but it was super easy. A vacuum tree is supplied to provide a signal for the blowoff valve so that it relieves boost pressure under deceleration. This is placed before the mass air sensor so that there is no issue with false readings.

15. Here is another angle of the intercooler so you can see just how massive it is.

16. With only 25,000 miles on our factory plugs, we decided it wouldn’t hurt if we went to new Ford Racing plugs that were one step colder.

17. Because the P-1SC-1 head unit is designed to be self-contained (where it relies on its own oil supply for lubrication) there is no need to tap into the engine’s oiling system. Instead, special oil is required, so ProCharger provides perfectly-sized bottles to fill your blower’s gear case with. The fill plug also serves as the dipstick, so it’s good to check fluid level regularly. We broke in our unit for about 500 miles and then changed the oil to make sure all was well.

18. For the engine, we also upgraded the oiling with a fresh crankcase of Royal Purple HPS 5W-20 oil. Since we knew the car was going to make more power than ever, we decided to pour in the good stuff to protect our investment.

19. ProCharger’s pulleys come with a seal to prevent tampering with this bolt, but we like to throw caution to the wind and play with boost levels. Here, we reinstall the stock 4.38-inch pulley with a 5/8-inch socket, after we took it off to help facilitate installation of the blower assembly.

20. With the induction pipe under the Kenny Brown strut tower brace, we reinstalled the factory engine cover. It’s an artful piece, and we are glad that the ProCharger kit does not require it to be cut up.

21. With all the hardware bolted up, we then uploaded the provided tune from the SCT handheld unit into BYOB.

22. The front bumper cover required quite a bit of trimming to clear the huge intercooler. While owners of 2013-2014 cars won’t have to do a thing, owners of 2011-2012 cars, like us, will have to remove about 2 inches of material from the lower valance and the pockets for the foglight assemblies.

23. To find out what it was all worth, we strapped the car down to GTR High Performance’s DynoJet 224X and were rewarded with solid numbers. With the box-stock 4.38-inch pulley, BYOB went from 379.53 rwhp to 556.00 with a mere 5.31 pounds of boost. Astounding, but we weren’t done yet.

24. Erik Radzins from ProCharger confirmed that even on the 91-octane fuel we were working with, no activity was detected from the knock sensors. Considering the high compression and low boost level, this was encouraging. We decided to press onward in our quest for more power.

25. Stepping up to a smaller driven pulley, we were able to raise boost levels slightly. The reduction from a 4.38-inch diameter down to an even 4.00 doesn’t seem monumental, but this was a good time to find out what the dyno would say.

These Coyotes sure love to rev. Corrected for the SAE, the stock power figures (blue) were trumped significantly by the red line, which is the run made with 5.38 pounds of boost. With the canned tune still in place, we simply swapped on the smaller 4.00-inch supercharger pulley and were able to see 8.28 psig of boost with a resulting 593.68 hp at the wheels (green). Looking at the data log after each run we believe we could have easily gone past 600 at the wheels if we chose to mess with the tune. But because we detected one incident of timing retard at around 4,700 rpm, we decided to play it safe and let it be, It's not like 593 rwhp is anything to be ashamed of. Even better, heat soak is never an issue, so we made the same power consistently.

Catch up on the rest of the Project BYOB's builds here!

Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 1
Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 2
Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 3
Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 4
Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 5