Muscle Mustangs & Fast FordsProject Vehicles
Project Build Your Own Boss - Part 2: E-Force Supercharger
Project BYOB gets a big-time power boost thanks to Edelbrock’s E-Force supercharger kit
After years of fiddling with EEC-IVs and popping head gaskets on the Francis Lewis Boulevard dyno in Queens with a supercharged Fox Granada, I now feel like the dumbest kid in the smart class when it comes to the Coyote Mustang.
After years of tuning cars by ear—well before chassis dynos were even a twinkle in the eye of every time-shot artist—I finally admit that I am fully intimidated by Español Oak. Nevertheless, I'm hooked and ready to endulge in the Coyote madness. So for BYOB, I buddied up with guys who hang around the cooler filled with the 5.0 Kool-Aid.
Rather than bore you about all of the stuff we're used to reading about, such as twin-turbos, centrifugal blowers, and three-stage nitrous systems—we want to keep it real. These complex power adders all sound super-sexy on paper and spit out great numbers on the 1,320, but nowadays we hang out in our ice-fishing cabin more often than we care to admit, and we want a reliable, usable, and stupefying experience with the 5.0 Mustang sitting in our garage. We're not looking for any fuss. We want power and we want it now.
Looking at the market today, there are several offerings when it comes to bolt-on blower kits. We've installed quite a few of them recently, so BYOB is getting the latest from Edelbrock.
In keeping with a clean-looking OEM-type setup with on-track repeatability and reliability, we wanted something with roots (no pun intended) on the OEM side, and the TVS 2300 twin-screw setup was our first requirement. With a four-lobe design and 160 degrees of twist, it's an inherently efficient package that we know is good for the long haul.
There are few aftermarket companies out there that use this cartridge for their own supercharger kits, and after we looked at how each were designed, we chose to go with Edelbrock's excellent E-Force Supercharger Kit, which is available in three stages for the Coyote. Not only does it use the tried and true TVS screw set, it is also packaged low in the engine's valley and comes complete with a liquid-to-air intercooler system.
Starting with the 50-state-legal kit (Stage 1), this is perfect for those who live in states that strangle you with tailpipe legislation. However, if you live in a state that allows you to “do what you gotta do,” you can opt for the more powerful Stage 2 kit or even the more radical Stage 3, which allows the tuner of your choice the ability to modify your car to over 650 horsepower. For our build, we'll focus on Stages 1 and 2.
The premise of BYOB (Build Your Own Boss) is for us to assemble a true performance car that offers more ability than the excellent Boss 302 without breaking the bank or the stock pistons. While Edelbrock claims 559 horsepower and 503 lb-ft of torque at the flywheel from the 6-pound Stage 1 Kit (PN 1588), the crappy 91-octane pump gasoline that California forces upon its masses can incredibly still offer more. So Edelbrock's Stage 2 kit (PN 15882) sounds much more appealing for BYOB, with a larger induction system to feed the throttle body and a smaller pulley for more boost (9 pounds) to produce an advertised 636 hp.
01. Edelbrock chose to mount the TVS 2300 twin-screw assembly down low to improve handling and more importantly, to allow for convenient packaging with the pulley situated right in front, and the throttle body mouth being offered a straight shot into the receiving end of the blower. Note the OEM-like O-ring seal.
02. Before we even put a wrench to BYOB, we baselined our project car when it was a simple GT. Right out of the box, our dead-stock ’11 Mustang GT cranked out 390 rwhp and 372 lb-ft of torque. This baseline is a pretty good way to start things off.
03. Once back home, we started dismantling our GT by removing the hood and front bumper cover. This will allow unencumbered access to the engine and provide the room you’ll need behind the front grille for the massive heat exchanger.
04. With the induction plumbing removed, we simply unbolted the intake manifold and pulled it out of the way. Note that it’s easier to remove the throttle body while the manifold is still on the engine with a 10mm socket than later on when the manifold assembly is on your bench.
05. With the injector harness out of the way, careful wipe the intake port flanges clean to prepare the new supercharger and intake manifold assembly to be lowered into place.
06. On the front of the engine, the only modifications needed here are to drill and tap these three flanges for 8mm threads. With some masking tape used as a guide for depth, we drilled into the passenger side of the timing cover without penetrating the timing chain cavity, and used our 8mm Metric taps to thread the holes.
07. We reused the intake manifold port seals from the stock intake manifold and transferred them over to the new Edelbrock intake. Yes, you can reuse these seals. No, it won’t cost you a dime.
08. With our new blower lowered into place and aligned to the intake ports, you can see how everything else (such as the front accessory drive) starts to take shape.
09. Edelbrock supplies new hardware to bolt the supercharger assembly into place. Using a 10mm, ¼-inch-drive socket with a universal joint, we were able to crank these puppies down to 8 ft-lb.
10. The supplied fuel rails are of the high-capacity variety and slide into place with the new 60-lb/hr injectors. Custom AN fittings are also provided and allow you to use the stock fuel feed line. The fuel pump remains stock, FYI.
11. With the three mounting bosses tapped, we were then able to install the new idler pulley and tensioner support bracket supplied by Edelbrock. This allows the supercharger pulley adequate belt wrap and proper alignment with the rest of the front accessory drive.
Bolt-On Your Own Blower
Since we like to do the wrenching ourselves, we set up our things in the Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Western Region National Workshop (a fancy name for my home shop). After following the excellent instructions (with pictures, which we love when available), we were able to complete the installation with above-average tools over the duration of a weekend. With the provided tune already installed in the SCT handheld device, we simply programmed Project BYOB with Stage 1's software and headed over to our neighborhood dyno facility for some quantifiable answers.
Rather than dilly-dally with some unknown guys, we called upon both Edelbrock and Stillen and its experts for BYOB's testing, and its Dynojet 248c above-ground dyno was ready and willing. Starting off at Stillin, Kyle Millen oversaw the test and we had Project BYOB strapped down and making some really good number right out of the gate.
Dead stock for our before testing, BYOB cranked out 390 rwhp at 6,600 rpm and 372 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm the wheels on Stillen's dyno. This was with the standard correction factor in place to compensate for the weather that was hotter than the staggering temper of a drunken badger with inflamed hemorrhoids in the July heat.
With Edelbrock's Stage 1 50-state emissions-legal kit installed, we laid down an awesome 500 rwhp at 6,800 rpm and 428 lb-ft rpm 4,200 to 5,300 rpm. With a 15-percent correction factor, this equates to 575 tree-hugging horsepower at the crank, which happens to best Edelbrock's own claim of 559 hp in its ad materials.
Make note of that peak torque. The gain of 56 lb-ft seems tiny at the peak points, but keep in mind that with the TVS blower huffing down those huge intake ports, we're seeing greater cylinder fill where it counts—like at 3,300 rpm where 80 lb-ft at the wheels is breaking loose those Mickey Ts. Kyle and Steve Millen looked on with approval at our 110hp rwhp gain from our simple weekend of wrenching—and coming from these guys, it meant a lot.
Up next, it was time to try out Stage 2. Thankfully, Edelbrock relies on Chris Johnson, its in-house tuning guru, for the tune on all of its supercharger kits. We knew when we uploaded Stage 2 through the SCT programmer that we'd have some serious numbers on our hands while maintaining reliability like a stocker. We spent about 30 minutes changing the upper blower pulley (from 3.75 inches to 3.25) and we put the open-element air filter into place. Once completed and with the dyno spinning away, we saw an incredible 567 rear-wheel horsepower with—finally—audible proof that our car was supercharged. At the same 15-percent driveline loss that we'd been using all along, that's 652 friggin' horsepower!
On top of that, we now had a pressure-plate-busting 502 lb-ft of torque available to our tires. This surpasses Edelbrock's own claims of 636 horsepower at the crank by 16 ponies. Nicely done, Edelbrock! Even better, we were able to see no change in idle quality, driveability, or any other issues. It was like the car came from the factory with an E-Force blower in place.
Hit the Street, Pete…
With the Edelbrock blower now dialed in, it was time to have some fun. At idle, the E-Force makes no noise, and the tune didn't sound any different than stock through our Steeda axle-back exhaust. With our newly boosted BYOB ready to hit the road, we thought it would be perfect to give it a good shanking. First gear? Useless. Second gear? No chance.
Without a burnout, our otherwise sticky Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires turned into ozone-killing smoke machines anytime we tried to stab the throttle. Goosing it wasn't much better as at 4,500 rpm; above in Second, we'd just spin the tires. And I'm not talking about just spinning, I'm talking sideways-to-the-sidewalk, watch-out-for-that-tree, holy-shut-the-front-door power now at your disposal. It was a new religious experience, reminding us that as mere mortals, we need to watch our next step with that right foot. No games, son.
12. With the two fuel lines in place, snap the crossover line into place until you hear a positive clicking sound once bottomed out.
13. Up front, the factory EVAP control solenoid gets reused and bolts onto the supercharger’s inlet with the factory seal and hardware.
14. The throttle body now goes into place. You can upgrade now if you’d like, but for our test, we kept the stocker in place. It reuses the factory O-ring seal and four bolts.
15. Edelbrock provides a Green Performance high-flow air filter element for the stock airbox and a new silicone inlet tube, which is substantially larger than stock to feed the blower.
16. To install the huge front-mounted intercooler, you’ll need to undo the four bolts that hold the air conditioning condenser to the radiator. Then, slide the new intercooler into place and reuse the bolts to secure it. The fit was perfect for us.
17. Looking down on the passenger side of the radiator support, mount the supplied coolant pump to its bracket and bolt the assembly onto the backside of the bumper-mounting flange. With the hoses connected, use the wiring connector that Edelbrock gives you to tap into the EVAP circuit to feed the pump with key-on power.
18. Getting close. With the key in the ignition on position (not running) we let the Edelbrock intercooler pump circulate and top off the kit’s reservoir and cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant/water.
19. With Stage 1 installed, we basked in the glory of a successful installation. As shown, this 50-state-legal kit belted out 500 rwhp on BYOB, our factory-stock ’11 GT.
20. Edelbrock recommends closing the gap on the factory plugs to 0.034 inches and then tightening them back down to 9 ft-lb. Luckily (or rather, unluckily) for us, child labor laws, combined with magazine salaries, allow us to have technical assistants that are more willing (than capable) for such tasks.
21. Next up, we upped the ante with Edelbrock’s Stage 2 upgrade, which includes a smaller pulley for 9 pounds of boost and a new belt. Outer diameter for the upper pulley drops from 3.75 inches to 3.25. The stock crank pulley remains.
22. Upgrading to Stage 2 was quite easy, as larger-diameter piping and a freer-flowing open- element air filter with matching airbox was on the short list.
23. Because the mass airflow sensor will see new readings from the larger inlet tube, Stage 2 also includes a new tune through the provided SCT tuner to maximize the new airflow potential.
24. With the Edelbrock Stage 2 spec, Project BYOB responded with 567 rwhp with the canned Edelbrock tune and nothing else. Considering how easy it was to make 652 horsepower at the crank (corrected for a 15-percent driveline loss) we’re beyond stoked. On the street the car is a pure animal.