Vinnie Kung
June 5, 2014

After years of fiddling with EEC-IVs and popping head gaskets on the Francis Lewis Boulevard dyno in Queens with a supercharged Fox Granada, I now feel like the dumbest kid in the smart class when it comes to the Coyote Mustang.

After years of tuning cars by ear—well before chassis dynos were even a twinkle in the eye of every time-shot artist—I finally admit that I am fully intimidated by Español Oak. Nevertheless, I'm hooked and ready to endulge in the Coyote madness. So for BYOB, I buddied up with guys who hang around the cooler filled with the 5.0 Kool-Aid.

Rather than bore you about all of the stuff we're used to reading about, such as twin-turbos, centrifugal blowers, and three-stage nitrous systems—we want to keep it real. These complex power adders all sound super-sexy on paper and spit out great numbers on the 1,320, but nowadays we hang out in our ice-fishing cabin more often than we care to admit, and we want a reliable, usable, and stupefying experience with the 5.0 Mustang sitting in our garage. We're not looking for any fuss. We want power and we want it now.

The Stage 1 E-Force kit comes ready to install with a pre-assembled blower/manifold combo, large front liquid-to-air intercooler and all the parts necessary for a 50-state- legal installation. For those with above-average mechanical experience, this can be installed in a weekend.

Looking at the market today, there are several offerings when it comes to bolt-on blower kits. We've installed quite a few of them recently, so BYOB is getting the latest from Edelbrock.

In keeping with a clean-looking OEM-type setup with on-track repeatability and reliability, we wanted something with roots (no pun intended) on the OEM side, and the TVS 2300 twin-screw setup was our first requirement. With a four-lobe design and 160 degrees of twist, it's an inherently efficient package that we know is good for the long haul.

There are few aftermarket companies out there that use this cartridge for their own supercharger kits, and after we looked at how each were designed, we chose to go with Edelbrock's excellent E-Force Supercharger Kit, which is available in three stages for the Coyote. Not only does it use the tried and true TVS screw set, it is also packaged low in the engine's valley and comes complete with a liquid-to-air intercooler system.

Starting with the 50-state-legal kit (Stage 1), this is perfect for those who live in states that strangle you with tailpipe legislation. However, if you live in a state that allows you to “do what you gotta do,” you can opt for the more powerful Stage 2 kit or even the more radical Stage 3, which allows the tuner of your choice the ability to modify your car to over 650 horsepower. For our build, we'll focus on Stages 1 and 2.

The premise of BYOB (Build Your Own Boss) is for us to assemble a true performance car that offers more ability than the excellent Boss 302 without breaking the bank or the stock pistons. While Edelbrock claims 559 horsepower and 503 lb-ft of torque at the flywheel from the 6-pound Stage 1 Kit (PN 1588), the crappy 91-octane pump gasoline that California forces upon its masses can incredibly still offer more. So Edelbrock's Stage 2 kit (PN 15882) sounds much more appealing for BYOB, with a larger induction system to feed the throttle body and a smaller pulley for more boost (9 pounds) to produce an advertised 636 hp.

01. Edelbrock chose to mount the TVS 2300 twin-screw assembly down low to improve handling and more importantly, to allow for convenient packaging with the pulley situated right in front, and the throttle body mouth being offered a straight shot into the receiving end of the blower. Note the OEM-like O-ring seal.

02. Before we even put a wrench to BYOB, we baselined our project car when it was a simple GT. Right out of the box, our dead-stock ’11 Mustang GT cranked out 390 rwhp and 372 lb-ft of torque. This baseline is a pretty good way to start things off.

03. Once back home, we started dismantling our GT by removing the hood and front bumper cover. This will allow unencumbered access to the engine and provide the room you’ll need behind the front grille for the massive heat exchanger.

04. With the induction plumbing removed, we simply unbolted the intake manifold and pulled it out of the way. Note that it’s easier to remove the throttle body while the manifold is still on the engine with a 10mm socket than later on when the manifold assembly is on your bench.

05. With the injector harness out of the way, careful wipe the intake port flanges clean to prepare the new supercharger and intake manifold assembly to be lowered into place.

06. On the front of the engine, the only modifications needed here are to drill and tap these three flanges for 8mm threads. With some masking tape used as a guide for depth, we drilled into the passenger side of the timing cover without penetrating the timing chain cavity, and used our 8mm Metric taps to thread the holes.

07. We reused the intake manifold port seals from the stock intake manifold and transferred them over to the new Edelbrock intake. Yes, you can reuse these seals. No, it won’t cost you a dime.

08. With our new blower lowered into place and aligned to the intake ports, you can see how everything else (such as the front accessory drive) starts to take shape.

09. Edelbrock supplies new hardware to bolt the supercharger assembly into place. Using a 10mm, ¼-inch-drive socket with a universal joint, we were able to crank these puppies down to 8 ft-lb.

10. The supplied fuel rails are of the high-capacity variety and slide into place with the new 60-lb/hr injectors. Custom AN fittings are also provided and allow you to use the stock fuel feed line. The fuel pump remains stock, FYI.

11. With the three mounting bosses tapped, we were then able to install the new idler pulley and tensioner support bracket supplied by Edelbrock. This allows the supercharger pulley adequate belt wrap and proper alignment with the rest of the front accessory drive.