Bob Perkins
March 14, 2013

Boss Solenoid
I have a sticking starter solenoid on my ’69 Boss 302 so I’m looking for a replacement. I’d like to find the correct assembly line version but I’m having trouble locating the part number or a photo for identification. Is it round with the part number C9AF-11450-A? If I can’t locate that one, what is the service replacement part? If I find a correct solenoid and it’s not working, can it be rebuilt? My car was built on May 23, 1969.
Philip Rarog
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

The correct engineering number is C9AF-11450-A. This relay is round as shown in the photo. Used on the Dearborn Assembly Plant only, the relay was not sold as a service replacement part through the Ford Parts and Service division. A used one is your best option. However, I’m not aware of anyone rebuilding them at present.

Seam Sealer
I am currently working on a rotisserie restoration of an early Metuchen-built, Wimbledon White ’68 Mustang GT. My questions concern some steps before painting. I currently have the car in PPG red oxide epoxy primer after getting it back from media blasting. All the metal work is complete and I now need to seal the seams. What seam sealer do you recommend for the floors inside the car? The original seam sealer was black and heavily brushed on at about 11⁄2 to 2 inches wide. Also, do you have recommended paint codes for the black in the engine compartment (spray gun, not cans) and for Wimbledon White (code M) that will best match the original?
Rich Perricone
Via the Internet

We use Lord Fusor 805 as seam sealer (brushed on) for the floor seams and also sprayed on for sound deadener.

For engine bay black, we use DP9OLF as a base followed by PPG DDL-9423 for the finish color. The 9423 is the best color/texture match I’ve used.

The mix code for Wimbledon White is 8375. You will need to tint the base because it will be too white if you use the BC system. Match it to the original paint on the car, such as the underside of the decklid or mix a pint of lacquer as a reference color. In my opinion, it’s a huge mistake to assume that Wimbledon White will be correct out of a can using the newer and reformulated mix code.

Shock ID
I have a ’71 Mustang convertible that is unrestored with 36,000 original miles. The original owner replaced the front shocks in 1984, according to a Sears invoice in the glove box. I would like to replace them with a set of original shocks. I need to know the correct part number for a ’71 Mustang with a January 14, 1971, build date. I also need to know the paint ID for the front shocks with a 302 2-barrel engine and the standard suspension.
John
Via the Internet

The shock in the accompanying photo is an OEM from ’71, D1ZF-18045-AB, and correct for the standard suspension. The paint ID is red, sprayed on rather than a daub. The shocks are date coded; this one is 0KB, for October 1970, second week. Good luck in your search as NOS shocks are a rare find today.

GT Stripes
I am trying to get an authoritative answer relating to the side stripes on a ’69 GT. Can you tell me the size and correct positioning? Also, were they originally painted or a decal? There doesn’t seem to be much information out there about the ’69 GTs.
Chris Bartzis
Queenland, Australia

The stripes for a ’69 GT are a stripe kit. With either an original Ford kit or a quality reproduction, the edge of the paper is your guide for positioning. Check an original paint car if you can as an additional installation guide.

Let us hear from you. Send your restoration questions to: Resto Roundup, c/o Bob Perkins, Perkins Restoration, North 2123 Hwy. 16 & 26, Juneau, WI 53039. Send email to mustang.monthly@sorc.com.