
Before... |

...and After! |
 Our list of goodies from Dearborn...  Our list of goodies from Dearborn Classics begins with this collection of emblems. The Fairlane 500 script is identical to the original pieces displayed prominently on the sides of the fenders. The 289 V emblems look similar to the ones on a Mustang, however for the Fairlane theyre gold instead of silver. The two-piece, early style Ford emblems are for the sail panels of the roof behind the rear side window. |
 Early Fairlane bumpers are...  Early Fairlane bumpers are so massive well probably save about 50 pounds by replacing them with new fiberglass bumpers from Dearborn Classics. |
 We started with the lower-front...  We started with the lower-front grille opening molding. Most of the moldings for the Fairlane have a special fastener that goes behind it. We were careful to save this stuff when everything came apart. |
 Here, the lower molding goes...  Here, the lower molding goes into posi-tion. This extremely discolored part was beyond any steel-wool refurbishing. A coat of Eastwood Alumi-Blast gave it a nice, uniform finish. |
 The headlight buckets were...  The headlight buckets were swung out of the way so we could access the front fastener for the fender ornament, available new from Dearborn Classics. |
 The headlight doors were the...  The headlight doors were the next parts to be carefully placed into position. All of the grille opening hardware got the Eastwood Alumi-Blast treatment. |
 This heavy molding goes across...  This heavy molding goes across the front edge of the hood and completes the trim circle around the grille opening. |
 Installing the grille is a...  Installing the grille is a slow process because the retaining mounts for the headlight rings must be carefully worked around. Make sure all fastener holes are lined up before tightening down anything all the way. |
 One tip that always makes...  One tip that always makes a car look better after a paint job is cleaning crud or over-spray off the headlights with steel wool. Do this before the headlight rings go back into place. |
 Our headlight rings were severely...  Our headlight rings were severely discolored after 35 years. A metal specialty shop could clean and reanodize these parts, but were still saving our weekly allowance toward that. In the meantime, Eastwoods Alumi-Blast does an incredibly good job of providing a uniform metallic finish. |
 All four of the Fairlanes...  All four of the Fairlanes headlight rings are different, so we marked them when they came off because they all seem to look the same. Different-length screws are needed for the different screw-hole locations. |
 All of the new emblems came...  All of the new emblems came with the small fasteners needed to attach them. They resemble small collars. |
 A soft rubber mallet was used...  A soft rubber mallet was used to seat difficult trim pieces. |
 Moving to the sides, we used...  Moving to the sides, we used steel wool to remove old overspray and rust from the moldings. We then masked off the side moldings so the center stripe could be painted. Its white on our car. |
 With all of the moldings cleaned...  With all of the moldings cleaned and painted, we installed them on the car. On this front left molding, most of the fasteners are reached from inside the wheelhouse. |
 Next, the new 289 emblems...  Next, the new 289 emblems from Dearborn Classics went into place. The gold color looks distinctive and sets these Fairlane emblems apart from the Mustang units. |
 The finishing touches for...  The finishing touches for the front fenders were the Fairlane 500 scripts. These long, delicate emblems must be installed carefully to prevent breakage. Once all of the locating pins were started, we used our soft rubber mallet to seat the lettering. |
 After installing the side...  After installing the side molding onto the door, we moved to the elaborate decorative moldings for the rear quarters. These diagonal trim parts attach from inside the car under the rear passenger window. |
 The long spear moldings for...  The long spear moldings for the rear quarters attach from both inside the car and in the trunk. |
 These metal trim pieces are...  These metal trim pieces are not available as either NOS or in reproduction, so ours were Alumi-Blasted before being placed in position. |
 The sail panel emblems are...  The sail panel emblems are colorful, elaborate, and decorative. The two pieces must be assembled before they go into place. |
 To install new exterior door...  To install new exterior door handles, first remove the old handles. The rear retaining screw is outside in the jamb area of the door, and the front screw must be accessed from inside the door. We already had our interior trim panels removed to work on our moldings, so removing the handles was an easy task. |
 To install the new door handles,...  To install the new door handles, it isnt necessary to disconnect the pushrod from the latch assembly. Just remove the screw shown that holds the release mechanism to the backside of the exterior handle. |
 When everything is apart,...  When everything is apart, clean up the release button with steel wool so it will match the new part. Dont forget to include the new handle gaskets when securing the new handle into place. |
 Were replacing the old...  Were replacing the old sill plates on the inside of the doors. First, the new Ford emblems were affixed to the new sill plates from Dearborn Classics. |
 Next, we placed the sill plates...  Next, we placed the sill plates into position using new screws. With the newly painted door jambs, its looking good in an area that was once a real mess. |
 To begin our work on the fiberglass...  To begin our work on the fiberglass bumpers, we first drilled holes to begin the creation of our turn-signal/parking-lamp openings. |
 We used the drill holes to...  We used the drill holes to get our jig-saw blade started, then carefully cut the openings to the indicated shape. A file is used to clean up the openings. |
 To obtain a good adhesion...  To obtain a good adhesion surface for paint, we went over the bumpers with a Scotch-Brite pad. After our light sanding, we wiped down the bumpers carefully to remove any debris. |
 The bumpers were coated with...  The bumpers were coated with a dull-silver wheel paint to simulate a steel finish. Black or body color were other possible options we considered. |
 With a few small adjustments...  With a few small adjustments of the bracketry on the car, we were ready to install the front bumper. After reinstalling the turn signals, the bumper was bolted into place. |
 Out back, our new bumper is...  Out back, our new bumper is in place, complete with license plate. We are in the process of hunting down replacement trim panels for the rear of our car, so for now, the mounting holes in the back panel will have to show. |