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How To Install Power Brakes For Your Vintage Ford Mustang
Master Power Makes It Easy To Step Up (And Slow Down!) With Their Master Power Brake Booster Kit
Life has become easier for those of us who love classic Mustangs. In the old days-the '70s and '80s-we were limited in what we could do with a vintage Mustang. At the mercy of salvage yards and a limited aftermarket industry, we had to improvise at every turn.
Today, companies like Master Power Brakes make short work of upgrading your braking system. You can bolt on disc brakes at all four corners. And, you can install power brakes any number of ways in '65-'66 Mustangs that were never available with power disc brakes to begin with.
One of the greatest challenges for those with '67-'70 Mustangs is installing a power booster when there's a big-block underhood. Mix in those Shelby pent-roof valve covers, and the potential for obscenities becomes great. The stock power booster is virtually impossible to remove and install with the valve covers installed; it just doesn't fit. Master Power Brakes changes all that with a compact power booster/master cylinder combination that fits like a glove-without removing the valve cover.
Give Yourself A BoostMaster Power Brakes has power-brake booster packages for all '65-'73 Mustangs. Here's the information you need to make an informed decision:
|'65-'66:||BM1522K (no brake pedal)|
(brake pedal included)
|'71-'73:||BM1523(no brake pedal)|
(Also called distribution block)
|Vapor trap:||No part number
(keeps fuel vapors out of the power booster)
|Petosin DOT 4 brake fluid|
|Electric vacuum pump:||(Use when camshaft profile hurts manifold vacuum)|
Distribution PlanWhen you order your Master Power Brakes power-booster package, which includes the master cylinder, you have choices. Optional is a GM distribution block, which includes a brake-pressure warning-light switch. This is a nice looking bolt-on that functions well if you aren't concerned with originality.
If originality is important, you can opt for the factory distribution blocks for 1967-'68, which also have the brake-pressure warning-light switch. The warning light comes on whenever there's a pressure loss in either the front or rear braking system. Pressure from the working side moves a pressure differential piston in the direction of the "no pressure" side, which closes the switch and illuminates the light. Whenever we correct the problem and bleed the brakes, we need to create a pressure change, which moves the piston back to center, canceling the light. The pressure change comes when we open a bleeder slowly on the unaffected side. Pressure from the affected side returns the piston to center.