Last month, we introduced you to the Mini Sub-Frame Kit and integral worm-and-sector Series 400 power steering from Classic Performance Products (CPP). We also showed you how easy it is to get into better handling without getting into big expense. This month, we’re going to show you how to make your suspension and braking system first rate with high-performance disc brakes in all four corners, along with mild rear suspension modifications you can make happen in a matter of hours in your home garage or driveway.
Improvements to handling make little sense if you don’t have the braking necessary to support the increased handling capability and power. CPP’s Big Brake Kit for the 8- and 9-inch Ford rear ends complement the better contact patch and the Mini Sub-Frame suspension already installed on Godwin Osifeso’s ’67 Mustang fastback. In front, CPP is installing the Big Brake Kit sporting super-sized 13-inch cross-drilled, gas slotted, and zinc-coated rotors mounted on upsized ’70-up Ford spindles with twin-piston, heavy-duty powdercoated calipers clamping down. The bigger rotors offer a greater friction surface area giving these binders 60-percent greater bite according to CPP. You’re going to need 17-inch wheels to clear these discs and calipers, and CPP has an easy-to-use wheel template designed to help you make an educated decision if you need to upgrade your wheels or just need to ensure fitment on your current ones.
At the back of the car, we’re installing CPP disc brakes, and the nice thing about this brake kit is if you have an 8-inch Ford axle and plan on upgrading to a 9-inch, you can transfer these brakes to the 9-inch without fitment concerns.
The Cotter Pin
There are a number of schools of thought about how to proper install a cotter pin. However, there is but one right way. Cotter pins have two parts—the long leg and the short leg. The long leg wraps over the stud or bolt end as shown. The short leg gets cut short and hammered down to stay in place, secure the nut, and to prevent injury. Never wrap both legs over the stud or bolt end, nor around the nut’s perimeter.
1. CPP’s Big Brake Kit encompasses huge 13-inch cross-drilled, gas-slotted, zinc-coated rotors mounted on ’70-up Ford spindles (sold separately) in this application. Grip comes from an aluminum two-piston caliper with plenty of friction material for increased stopping power.
2. Heavy-duty steel braided brake hoses provide durability and long life. Copper washers, included in the kit, go on both sides of this fitting.
3. Here is the complete Mini Sub-Frame kit that we installed last month, along with Viking Performance double-adjustable coilover shocks and the Big Brake package. This is a good-looking package big on performance driving potential.
4. Viking Warrior Dual-Adjust coilover shocks are designed to allow compression and rebound performance plus ride height with a minimum of fuss. There are 19 different compression adjustments and 19 rebound for a total of 361 potential combinations. They are perhaps a bit overkill on your average driver, but were employed in this build
5. Here’s Classic Performance Product’s complete rear sway bar and shock kit engineered to reduce body roll and improve understeer/oversteer. Everything necessary to complete the install is here including gas shocks and hardware.
6. Brake replacement comes first, including removal of the old drum brakes. Brakes are removed as entire assemblies by pulling backing plate locknuts with a 5⁄8-inch deep well socket. Lines and parking brake cables are disconnected.
Improvements to handling make little sense if you don’t have the braking necessary to support the increased handling capability and power.
7. Rear axle seals are replaced at this time as a matter of precaution. When new seals are installed, extra care is taken to ensure lip springs don’t pop out during installation of the new seals. Grease is packed into the seal lip to keep the spring secure.
8. The rear disc brake caliper bracket fitment is checked prior to installation.
9. The rear axle shaft is positioned, taking care not to damage the axle seal.
10. Axle shaft, gaskets, and disc brake brackets should look like this. Bolts and nuts are secured. It’s suggested you use a thread locker on bolt threads.
You Don’t Sway…
By lowering ride height, we’re improving the car’s center of gravity, making things more stable. Antisway bars fore and aft reduce roll, allowing for an improved tire contact patch. With an adjustable antisway bar in back, we can tune roll control depending upon the kind of driving we intend to do. We’re also installing CPP high-performance gas shocks with urethane bushings for better dampening.
11. Rear disc brake rotors are installed and temporarily secured with lug nuts for caliper installation.
12. Caliper fitment is checked and they are shimmed for proper centering. You should have the same distance between caliper and rotor on both sides.
13. Steel braided brake hoses from CPP are used with copper washers on both sides for sealing purposes. Nothing compresses and seals better than copper.
The nice thing about this brake kit is if you have an 8-inch Ford axle and plan on upgrading to a 9-inch, you can transfer these brakes to the 9-inch without fitment concerns.
14. A steel band clamp is used to secure the brake line to the axle tube.
15. The installed CPP rear disc brake assembly and hose should look like this.
16. The parking brake cables simply slide into position on the caliper and attaches to the lower arm.
17. A high-capacity, dual-reservoir master cylinder is employed for the Mustang’s four-wheel disc brake system. Using the Mustang’s manual drum brake pedal and support, the master cylinder pushrod is adjusted to the same length as the manual drum master. This is a good starting point, which can be changed based on brake sensitivity
18. Rear shocks are installed first, remembering to bleed them prior to installation. Turn the shocks upside down and fully compress them three times, then, allow them to fully extend. This should eliminate air in the hydraulic side of these gas-charged shocks. These CPP gas shocks have durable urethane bushings for durability and control.
19. Rear antisway bar installation involves two billet axle tube brackets and U-bolts. Use a thin film of silicone lube between the bushings and antisway bar for quiet operation.
Antisway bars fore and aft reduce roll, allowing for an improved tire contact patch. With an adjustable antisway bar in back, we can tune roll control depending upon the kind of driving we intend to do.
20. Antisway bar link brackets are installed on each side and bolted to the framerails as shown. Do this with the rear leaf springs compressed, as though the vehicle was sitting on the ground. Install the brackets and links and adjust accordingly. There are three positions depending upon the roll control desired.
21. Godwin’s ’67 Mustang fastback with the CPP suspension system installed sports the right ride height with improved handling and braking. As it roars through the slalom, there is significantly less body roll with excellent contact patch. Godwin tells us the car handles like it is on rails and is quite predictable.