Jim Smart
December 2, 2013

Last month, we introduced you to the Mini Sub-Frame Kit and integral worm-and-sector Series 400 power steering from Classic Performance Products (CPP). We also showed you how easy it is to get into better handling without getting into big expense. This month, we’re going to show you how to make your suspension and braking system first rate with high-performance disc brakes in all four corners, along with mild rear suspension modifications you can make happen in a matter of hours in your home garage or driveway.

Better Braking

Improvements to handling make little sense if you don’t have the braking necessary to support the increased handling capability and power. CPP’s Big Brake Kit for the 8- and 9-inch Ford rear ends complement the better contact patch and the Mini Sub-Frame suspension already installed on Godwin Osifeso’s ’67 Mustang fastback. In front, CPP is installing the Big Brake Kit sporting super-sized 13-inch cross-drilled, gas slotted, and zinc-coated rotors mounted on upsized ’70-up Ford spindles with twin-piston, heavy-duty powdercoated calipers clamping down. The bigger rotors offer a greater friction surface area giving these binders 60-percent greater bite according to CPP. You’re going to need 17-inch wheels to clear these discs and calipers, and CPP has an easy-to-use wheel template designed to help you make an educated decision if you need to upgrade your wheels or just need to ensure fitment on your current ones.

At the back of the car, we’re installing CPP disc brakes, and the nice thing about this brake kit is if you have an 8-inch Ford axle and plan on upgrading to a 9-inch, you can transfer these brakes to the 9-inch without fitment concerns.

The Cotter Pin

There are a number of schools of thought about how to proper install a cotter pin. However, there is but one right way. Cotter pins have two parts—the long leg and the short leg. The long leg wraps over the stud or bolt end as shown. The short leg gets cut short and hammered down to stay in place, secure the nut, and to prevent injury. Never wrap both legs over the stud or bolt end, nor around the nut’s perimeter.

1. CPP’s Big Brake Kit encompasses huge 13-inch cross-drilled, gas-slotted, zinc-coated rotors mounted on ’70-up Ford spindles (sold separately) in this application. Grip comes from an aluminum two-piston caliper with plenty of friction material for increased stopping power.
2. Heavy-duty steel braided brake hoses provide durability and long life. Copper washers, included in the kit, go on both sides of this fitting.
3. Here is the complete Mini Sub-Frame kit that we installed last month, along with Viking Performance double-adjustable coilover shocks and the Big Brake package. This is a good-looking package big on performance driving potential.
4. Viking Warrior Dual-Adjust coilover shocks are designed to allow compression and rebound performance plus ride height with a minimum of fuss. There are 19 different compression adjustments and 19 rebound for a total of 361 potential combinations. They are perhaps a bit overkill on your average driver, but were employed in this build
5. Here’s Classic Performance Product’s complete rear sway bar and shock kit engineered to reduce body roll and improve understeer/oversteer. Everything necessary to complete the install is here including gas shocks and hardware.
6. Brake replacement comes first, including removal of the old drum brakes. Brakes are removed as entire assemblies by pulling backing plate locknuts with a 5⁄8-inch deep well socket. Lines and parking brake cables are disconnected.

Improvements to handling make little sense if you don’t have the braking necessary to support the increased handling capability and power.

7. Rear axle seals are replaced at this time as a matter of precaution. When new seals are installed, extra care is taken to ensure lip springs don’t pop out during installation of the new seals. Grease is packed into the seal lip to keep the spring secure.
8. The rear disc brake caliper bracket fitment is checked prior to installation.
9. The rear axle shaft is positioned, taking care not to damage the axle seal.
10. Axle shaft, gaskets, and disc brake brackets should look like this. Bolts and nuts are secured. It’s suggested you use a thread locker on bolt threads.