KJ Jones
December 3, 2013

We acknowledge that when it comes to racing Mustangs, most of our coverage happens at the dragstrip. Putting the coals to a stout Pony and then measuring how quickly it runs at the strip is a mainstay of our hobby.

While going straight in a hurry puts several Mustang systems to the test, brakes are only critical the end of the fun. When it comes to running hard on a road course or autocross, or bombing downhill through a canyon full of switchbacks, the brakes are always on duty.

Carving corners has been the realm of the Mustang fanatics at Kenny Brown Performance since 1986. As experts in this segment, Kenny Brown engineers have developed innovative parts for improving a ’Stang’s handling and stopping.

Running hard heats the brakes and leads to increased stopping distances. As such, Kenny Brown developed this Front Brake Duct Kit ’94-’04 Mustangs (PN KB-71200NK; $278). Highlighted by 3-inch (diameter) silicone hose and a pair of spindle-mounted, front-brake ducts, this kit is designed to reduce front-brake operating temperatures. Lower temps lessen the potential for brake fade, which keeps stopping power consistent, and actually improves the life of the rotors and brake pads.

Ricardo Topete and his team and customers at GTR High Performance are avid participants in autocross and open-track events held throughout Southern California. Pedro Paszoldan also participates in these events with his New Edge Pony, making it a perfect candidate for installing the Kenny Brown brake-cooling hardware.

In this Tech Inspection, we highlight the key points of the cooling-duct install. As per usual, the procedure was performed by Ricardo at GTR’s ’Stang center in Rancho Cucamonga, California. This setup definitely can be installed as a DIY deal, but it’s much easier to document with Ricardo spinning the wrenches.

Kenny Brown’s kit is simple in makeup: two brake-cooling ducts consisting of 10 feet of 3-inch, high-temperature Red Silicone hose; a pair of bumper-mounted duct inlets; and all of the fasteners, clamps, and zip-ties necessary for a simple installation.
After raising the ‘Stang to a workable height and removing both front wheels, the cooling-duct installation starts by removing both brake calipers, rotors, and dust shields. The brake calipers can remain attached to the lines for this operation, but make sure there’s no stress on the lines (to prevent them from being damaged).
Detailed directions are included with the Kenny Brown brake-cooling system. After positioning the duct plates on the hubs (these pieces basically replace the factory dust shields), Ricardo uses hardware included in the kit to secure each one. Note that bolts pass through the front (face) of the plate, and a spacer is required between the back of the duct plate and the spindles.
The kit comes with 10 feet of ducting, which must be cut to fit. After placing the hose on the duct plate, Ricardo determines exactly how much tubing is necessary for both sides and cuts the hose using a fine-tooth saw.
Each hose is fastened to the inlet ducts using 3-inch clamps, which are supplied with the kit. The hose can be lanced slightly at the end to ensure proper fitment over the oval-shaped inlet…
These 14-inch zip-ties secure the ducting to various points of the frame. Installing the wheels and turning them from lock-to-lock will help verify the tubing is the correct length.
Most installations require using the two plastic brake-cooling inlet ducts that are included with the system, and that means cutting mounting holes in the front bumper cover. However, using existing openings is an option, especially on Cobras. While Pedro’s Pony is a GT, it actually wears an ’03-’04 Cobra fascia, which already supports attaching brake-cooling hoses directly to OEM inlets in the bumper cover.