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Ford Mustang Resto Roundup
Concours Expert Bob Perkins Handles Your Restoration Questions
I have a '65 convertible with 13-inch wheels, which seem to be rare, at least in the show circle that I run in. I have traditional '65 wheel covers and would like to know if the covers were also available with spinners. If not, is it possible to install spinners on the 13-inch covers. Where can I find them?
Via the Internet
For '65, Ford offered the 13-inch spinner wheel cover in two versions - Ford part number C9ZZ-1130-M and C5ZZ-1130-S. The C9ZZ-1130-M cover had a stainless finish while the C5ZZ-1130-S had a chrome finish. Check eBay and you should be able to find a C5ZZ-1130-S cover. The NOS 14-inch version is much more difficult to find but more common in used condition. Original-style spinners are available as reproductions from most Mustang parts vendors.
I'm restoring a '73 Mach 1 and decided to powdercoat most of the engine compartment and front end parts instead of painting them. They turned out great; the company that did the powdercoating was able to match the satin black perfectly. My problem leads up to my question to you. The hood hinges, hood latch, and shock tower caps are all items that should have the factory oil phosphate process instead of being painted. The restoration shops in my area either don't offer this process or they want to charge a lot of money. I'd like to replicate the look with modern powdercoating but haven't found anyone who can match the color or finish. Do you have any suggestions based on what others have done?
My other question is about the latch brackets for the hood twist locks. They attach to the radiator support. What color and finish are they supposed to be?
You could either phosphate the hinges, latch, etc. yourself or find a source that professionally does zinc phosphate. It's a very inexpensive finish to duplicate. Several companies sell zinc phosphate by mail order, including The Eastwood Company. Google "zinc phosphate" and you'll come up with a list.
A quart of zinc phosphate will cover your entire needs for one car, and typically costs less than powdercoat. All you need is a hot plate and a stainless steel pan. An instruction sheet will be included with the product. Personally, I'm not a fan of painting parts that originally came with a natural finish, especially parts that move, like hood hinges, because the paint will rub and wear off over time.
The hood lock brackets should be clear zinc (silver). Again, I prefer the correct finish but powdercoat will probably work pretty well too.
I'm trying to locate a set of mounting hardware for the rear window louvers on a '71-'73 Mustang Mach 1. I have contacted numerous parts suppliers, restoration shops, and just about every source on eBay. I currently have a set of upper hinge mounting pieces but unfortunately one of the upper mounts is broken. I do not have the lower mounting pieces.
My louvers appear to be original pieces taken off a '71 Mach 1. As such, they have two small spring-loaded buttons on the second to bottom slat near the outside edge. These "buttons" (for lack of a better description) are basically round headed and spring-loaded (push and twist type) with a shaft approximately 1/2-inch or so in length. The upper mounting pieces slip under the rear window rubber seal and catch the lip of the rear glass at the top. Two-sided sticky tape is used on the underside of the mounts, which are the hinged pivot points so the louvers can be lifted in order to clean the rear glass.
Do you know of a source where I might be able to find a complete set of mounting hardware?
Via the Internet
Your '71-'73 Mustang rear louvers are an aftermarket item. Ford did not offer louvers for the '71-'73 Mustang fastback. If you still would like to use them, you will probably have to fabricate the hardware.
Colors and Finishes
I am having a '67 Mustang restored to near concours condition. I am always disturbed by the different colors of engine compartments that I see at shows. How do I know the exact finish of black for the engine compartment? What about the trunk? Also, what color should I paint my 289 engine?
Via the Internet
I'll answer your easy question first. The trunk area is painted the exterior body color.
Your 289 should be painted Ford Corporate Blue, mix code DAR 13358. This is the Ford reference number and is correct when matched to the Ford EP 2075-C Factory Pack and original engine paint that I've matched on unrestored cars. Originally, it was common to have slight color variations from the air cleaner to engine block, etc. The 13358 code has the slight green tint that the spray bomb paints are missing.
For engine compartment black, we prime with PPG DP90LF black. Many restorers will also use this as a top coat. We use PPG DDL-9423 Low-Gloss Black on thoroughbred-type restorations due to the color and texture of the paint. For more durable applications, we flatten DAR 9000 black to a semi-gloss finish.
Master Cylinder Caps
In the May issue, there's a feature on your low-mileage '66 K-code fastback that includes a photo of the master cylinder with a cap that I have never seen before. I have a '66 K-code fastback that I bought new and it didn't have that cap. My car has drum brakes. Does your car have disc brakes and maybe that explains the difference?
Via the Internet
The '66 Mustangs equipped with disc brakes used the unpainted master cylinder cap with the red "Caution" label. Drum brake cars used a cap that was painted black with the master cylinder as an assembly.
Send restoration questions to: Resto Roundup, c/o Bob Perkins, Perkins Restoration, North 2123 Hwy. 16 & 26, Juneau, WI 53039. Send email to firstname.lastname@example.org.