January 1, 2005

Tip on TipsI have a '70 Mach 1 with the 351 Cleveland. The exhaust was redone before I bought it. I'm currently redoing it again and have a question. How far should the exhaust tips extend past the rear valance?Larry SchallerVia the Internet

The exhaust tips, Ford part numbers D022-5255-A and D022-5255B for a '70 Mach 1, extend only about 3 inches beyond the rear valance cut-out area. The factory exhaust has location stops on the tailpipes and location slots on the tips, so there is really no adjusting.

To Modify or NotI acquired a '65 Mustang A-code convertible with the initial intention of restoring it as close to original as possible. The 289 engine tag, door plate, front-fender VIN, and other items suggest the car has all original equipment. As I consider the safety and performance implications, I'm leaning toward restoring the paint, top, and interior to original, but upgrading the drum brakes to all disc with power booster, the seatbelts to the three-point shoulder type, better-flow exhaust (as opposed to the single transverse muffler), and possibly "juicing" the engine (it appears it may be best to do a rebuild).

Will these actions decrease the value of the finished restoration and, if so, by how much? Is this more a personal choice, dependent on what I intend to do with the car? Essentially, I'd like to drive it occasionally and enjoy safety and performance features without compromising value too much.Brad HanleyVia the Internet

The modifications you mentioned are what I consider bolt-ons. In other words, if the next potential owner does not care for them and wants to return the car to concours stock condition, this can be accomplished without major re-restoration. Save all the original parts you replace. It's hard to put a devaluation figure on a car for modifications. Many perspective buyers try to determine the cost to replace incorrect parts to reduce the asking price.

Replacing incorrect or missing parts can be expensive, especially on the Boss and Shelby Mustangs that have more unique parts.

Rear-Mount AntennaI recently received my August '04 issue. I was interested in the "Original Recipe" article because I also own a '69 Mach 1 in Champagne Gold with a 428 CJ and a four-speed manual transmission. The pictures were great because of the rarity of the color, but I noticed the radio antenna was mounted on the rear quarter-panel, not the front passenger-side fender. I've always seen the antenna mounted on the front, and I was hoping the article would state why the antenna on Gary Woodruff's Mach 1 was mounted at the rear

I first thought the car didn't come with a radio and someone added one, but after looking at the "Sticker Says" box, I see it came with one. Can you explain this? Todd DobbinsScottsdale, AZ

Antenna installation was part of dealer prep for all '65-'73 Mustangs. The antenna was shipped in the trunk with a template to drill holes in the right fender for installation. Because it was up to the dealer to install them, antennas did not always end up in the standard location provided by the template supplied by Ford Motor Company. According to Gary Woodruff, his car's original owner told him he requested the rear quarter-panel installation, which was accomplished using the longer antenna cable from Ford's rear-mount antenna accessory kit.

Optional electric antennas on the '69-'70 Shelby were rear-quarter-panel mounted. This was somewhat popular in the '60s.

Some dealers installed the fender-mount antenna on the rear quarter-panel, which seems to be the scenario for feature Mach 1s. If a car is not restored, I wouldn't change the location. If it's restored or in the process, I would suggest the stock location if you plan on concours events.

Low-Down BlackI'm restoring my '71 Mach 1, a 429 CJ-R car. I know you get questions about the black hood every week, but how about the black trim on the lower sides? The car's code is 63R Mach 1, color code M (white), and trim code 5A. Are the sides the same color and sheen as the non-textured, low-gloss hood?Jimmy BennickVia the Internet

The hood and lower trim blackout are both non-textured, low-gloss black. The low-gloss black can be mixed or bought in a factory pack. Most body shops like to choose a compatible paint consistent with what was used for body color topcoat. If gloss black is going to be flattened, have a test panel painted for correct flatness before testing on your car.

Send restoration questions to: Resto Roundup, c/o Bob Perkins, Perkins Restoration, North 3123, Highway 16 & 26, Juneau, WI 53039. Send e-mail to: mustang.monthly@primedia.com.