Mustang MonthlyHow To Tech Qa
1970 Boss 302 & R-code Mach 1 - Resto Roundup
Concours Expert Bob Perkins Handles Your Restoration Questions
In the Boss DetailsI have a couple of detail questions for a '70 Boss 302. They were recently discussed on the Boss 302 Web site (www.boss302.com), but without definitive answers. What is the correct size and finish of the clamp for the flex tube from the heat shield to the air-cleaner snorkel? Should the correct heater-hose fitting in the intake manifold be the tall or short style?Frank MillerVia the Internet
The most common clamp used on the C9ZF-9B632-F flex tube is the Wittek No. 34 gold galvanized clamp. If the clamp is a Wittek style, No. 34 is the only correct number. I have also seen this clamp in clear galvanized finish, but gold is by far the most common.
Very late Dearborn-built '70 Boss 302s also used a bond-type clear galvanized clamp with the only ID as "A13." This style clamp was used on late-production Dearborn Bosses. Although uncommon, it was used and should be considered concours correct.
The heater-hose fitting in the intake is Ford part number C9ZZ-18599-A. This was the fitting used in '69 and '70 Boss 302s. It was replaced in the parts system by the taller D0AZ-18599-A, but it was never original equipment. The C9ZZ-19599-A had the end crimped to restrict water flow.
Fake Hood Ornament?I recently acquired a hood ornament for '65-'66 Mustangs that was supposed to be brand new, right out of the box. It's different from another hood ornament I acquired, which is the accepted aftermarket item with "Patent Pending" on the inside of the base in block letters. The new ornament differs because it doesn't have the "Patent Pending" lettering and the inside of the base is rough instead of smooth. The base is also much thicker and slightly shorter, and the definition of the running horse isn't good. The bosses where the attachment bolts are screwed are square instead of round. Was there more than one producer of the aftermarket hood ornament? Is this a fake item made by someone who tried to duplicate (poorly) the original?Bob HamiltonVia the Internet
I believe there is a reproduction of the aftermarket '65-'66 Mustang hood ornament. The only ID on the original-issue ornament box is part number 199, with no manufacturer listed. The ornament also has 199 embossed inside the base. I would consider the 199 on the base similar to a Ford engineering number. If your ornament does not have the 199, it probably isn't one of the original '60s-era hood ornaments.
CJ Valve CoversI have a question about the correct type of valve covers for a '69 R-code Mach 1. The car was built in Metuchen in July 1969, and came with a C6 automatic and 3:00 gears. It did not have the correct engine when I purchased it. Which valve covers should it have: chrome-plated steel, plain finned aluminum, or finned aluminum with "Cobra Jet" and the snake?Derrick ZinckVia the Internet
The build date of July 1969 indicates your R-code Mach 1 definitely should have aluminum valve covers. Which style of finned aluminum covers is less definitive. Most R-code Mach 1s did not have the "snake" valve covers, which came on most Super Cobra Jet Mach 1s built after February 1969. But some R-code, non-SCJ Mach 1s also had the snake covers.
The snake valve covers were also sold over the counter by both Ford's Parts and Service division and by Shelby. They were quite desirable, then and now, which means there are probably more snake valve covers on cars than there were in 1969.
Your Mach 1 would be considered Mustang Club of America concours correct with either style finned-aluminum valve cover.
Which Grabber Blue?I've just undertaken the restoration of a previously restored Grabber Blue '70 Boss 302. The problem is, I've been shown about four different colors, all said to be Grabber Blue. How can I determine which shade is correct? It seems every paint manufacturer has a different Grabber Blue.Jim ImrieOakville, Ontario
I completely understand your dilemma. I always mix a pint of Ditzler lacquer for correct color match, then match the new paint to the lacquer. Because the lacquer formula was the original color match for 1970, it is accurate. Formulas have changed for newer types of paint several times over the last three decades, so accuracy is often compromised.
The original paint on the underside of the decklid is a great place to match color because there shouldn't be much fading. Paint is expensive, but minimal compared to the labor for a repaint due to an incorrect color match. The correct color is important, so it's imperative to get it right the first time.
Spoiler LocationRecently, you had an N.O.S. '69-'70 Mustang rear spoiler for sale on eBay. You also had the mounting instructions that showed the measurements for the spoiler location. Would you print a copy for those of us who want to add a rear spoiler to our Mustang fastbacks?John SmallLedgewood, NJ
Locate per dimensions and drill four 31/48-inch-diameter holes. Open luggage-compartment door and enlarge holes in inner panel only to 51/48-inch diameter. Use attaching parts to install spoiler.
Send restoration questions to: Resto Roundup, c/o Bob Perkins, Perkins Restoration, North 3123, Highway 16 & 26, Juneau, WI 53039. Send e-mail to: email@example.com.