Mustang MonthlyHow To Tech Qa
1967 Mustang Fastback & 1969 Mustang Mach 1 - Beyond The Basics
Vintage Mustang Tech Advice From Bob Aliberto
Here's a SwitchI have a '67 fastback without the tilt steering wheel. I've looked everywhere for a new ignition switch and cannot find the proper part number or replacement instructions. I found part number C7ZA 13B302-F BP on the wiring harness of the switch on the car. Is this the correct part number? I called an obsolete-parts dealer and purchased the switch they said would work. However, the switch I purchased, PN C8SZ13341A, appears to be different. The emergency flasher is different and the wire-harness connector appears as if it connects inside the column.Scott GriffinCambridge City, IN
The switch is no longer available from Ford but is available as a reproduction from the aftermarket industry. The old, obsolete Ford number was C7ZZ-13341-F, thus the C8SZ-A switch you received is incorrect.
Order a reproduction from Mustangs Plus (800/999-4289); ask for PN 00182. You'll need to reuse the plastic end of the harness connector from your old switch, so be careful not to damage it. Cut the wires off the old switch a few inches away from the plastic connector so you can reinstall the correct-color wires from the new switch. The connector must be removed in order to snake the old switch wires out of the steering column. Once the new wires are run down the column, use the cutoff end as a pattern so the new wires are placed in their correct port in the plastic connector.
Stop Leak!I can't stop the rear window from leaking in my '69 Mach 1. I've had the gasket replaced twice at the local window shop, but it's still leaking. I was hoping the new silicone sealers available these days would stop the leaks. The window shop guys say the silicone won't stick to the rubber gaskets so they have to use the gooey stuff. Help!Ron PruittVia e-mail
The types of windshields and rear windows utilized on your fastback are prone to leakage and can also be difficult to reseal. The secret is to patiently force the sealer slowly and deeply into the joint between the car body and window glass. Using 3M Bedding and Glazing Compound (PN 08511) and a caulking gun, flatten the tip of the compound tube so you can insert the tip completely into the gasket and squeeze until the sealer oozes out, indicating the entire gasket gap is filled. Move along slowly an inch or so at a time and be generous with the amount of sealer used. Be certain all molding retaining clips are intact before you begin, and pay particular attention to sealer application as you approach the clips. You may want to mark the molding clip locations with a piece of tape on the car body by each clip, as they will be covered by sealer and difficult to find when installing the moldings. Smooth excess sealer between the car body and gasket, and be sure there are no gaps or air bubbles. Apply sealer between the glass and gasket before you install the trim moldings, and be prepared for sealer to be everywhere. It's a messy job indeed.
The silicone sealer you mentioned should not be used because it's designed to cure and harden, preventing the trim moldings from being removed, and it may not be compatible with the rubber gasket. Any sealer that hardens must be avoided. Our March '04 issue has an excellent article pertaining to glass replacement and illustrates some of what I'm saying. Removal of the glass isn't necessary for resealing, as in your case. However, the sealer application and molding installation procedures are the same for either situation.