April 1, 2004

An air filter used with any high-rise manifold should fit under your hood without trouble. The typical Ford Hi-Po open-element air filter, with its chrome top and exposed filter, is a popular choice, and different height elements are available to aid with clearance issues. The filter is also available with a dropped base that lowers over the carb, again to gain hood clearance. I'd suggest the dropped-base filter with a wide 3-inch element for maximum filtering and airflow.

The power-steering pump, pulleys, and brackets for a 351C will work fine, and the necessary hoses will fit the '68 steering linkage. Power brakes will not interfere with the engine, so this is also a simple matter of obtaining the correct '68 brake parts.

Light Me UpHow and where were the GT fog lights hooked up to a power source when they were installed at the factory for '66 Mustangs? Also, did this hookup require the parking lights to be on in order to operate the fog lights? I am aware that the 10-amp circuit breaker was mounted to the underside of the windshield-wiper support with the hot lead going from it to the fog-light switch. The '66 Mustang wiring diagram I have omits a circuit and connector from an original harness that I plan to use, and makes some indeterminate references to wiring connections.Will HenricksVia the Internet

I agree, the published wiring diagrams are a bit unclear about GT fog-light connections. The diagram does not include the plugs in the factory rear-body harness; however, the information and wire color codes are correct.

The power source to the circuit breaker comes from an open underdash plug with a blue with black tracer wire that is always hot. This is the same source used to power the electric clock on Rally-Pac-equipped cars. The wiring diagram calls for the source to be the battery terminal on the starter relay. This will work, but it will require a long lead and a grommet where the wire passes through the firewall.

The parking lights do not have to be on in order to operate the fog lights, even though the black fog-light wire does indeed connect to the taillight circuit. The purpose of this connection is to illuminate the dash and taillights along with the fog light; thus, the fog-light switch powers the taillights, not the other way around. The fog-light harness is a jumper that plugs between the underdash and rear body harnesses in order to tap into the black taillight feed wires. There are also two different underdash harnesses, depending upon date of manufacture. One has a separate wire harness for the four-way flasher circuit. The second type is for later cars, which have the four-way harness as an integral part of the underdash harness. Due to these differences, I cannot be more specific, but if your fog lights are wired as follows, all will function correctly.

The fog-light switch has three wires: one gray, one black, and one blue-with-black tracer. Connect the black wire to the black wire in the rear body harness behind the driver-side kick panel, as this will power the tail and dash lights. Connect the gray wire to the fog lights, which will power the fog lights. Connectthe blue-with-black wire to the circuit breaker; this will serve as the fog-light-circuit power feed. Connect the other side of the circuit breaker to any always-hot 12-volt source, such as the battery terminal on the solenoid, the ignition switch, or a plug under the dash.

Send your questions to: Beyond the Basics, c/o Bob Aliberto, P.O. Box 205, Salt Point, NY 12578. E-mail us at mustang.monthly@primedia.com.