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1965 Mustang Fastback & 1966 Mustang Hardtop - Beyond The Basics
Vintage Mustang Tech Advice From Bob Aliberto
Boot Scooting BoogieI have a '65 fastback with a four-speed transmission. I'm trying to replace the shifter boot. How do you do this? I have the boot, so I just have to take off the old one and put on the new one. It's driving me crazy!PaulVia e-mail
I agree. The hole in the center of the shifter bolt is basically the same size as the shifter handle, and it seems impossible to get the boot past the reverse lock-out "T" lever. The boot is more flexible than it seems and, with some care, can be stretched over the "T" lever one leg at a time. Use a thin, round screwdriver and lots of rubber lube to gently stretch the boot.
The boot is secured to the floor of the vehicle with four Phillips head screws that are hidden by the carpet. You may be able to gain access to these screws through the boot hole in the carpet. It's worth the extra effort to remove the passenger seat to loosen the carpeting for complete access to the boot screws
Six Not EnoughI'm restoring a '66 hardtop. It was originally a six-cylinder car, but now it has a 289 V-8. It came with the Ford 7.5-inch rear axle. Can it still be driven with the same axle but with different gears and converted to a five-lug? I don't plan to upgrade to a larger engine because I really like the 289.John ReyesLos Angeles, CA
Unfortunately, it isn't possible to convert a small six-cylinder axle to a five-bolt lug pattern. The axle is quite small and does not hold up to the extra power of a V-8 engine, which is why Ford used the small axle in six-cylinder vehicles only.
It is possible to connect the small axle to the V-8 transmission if the correct driveshaft is used. A six-cylinder C4 automatic-transmission driveshaft should also fit a V-8 manual or automatic transmission because they all have 28 splines. The V-8 driveshafts use a larger universal joint and will not bolt up to the six-cylinder rear axle. The small rear will hold up behind the V-8 engine if only ordinary street use is in order; however, any aggressive driving will cause failure.
The six-cylinder cars not only have a four-lug bolt pattern, they have smaller 9-inch brakes versus the V-8's 10-inch brakes. Also, the entire steering linkage, including idler arm and tie rods, are much lighter on the six-cylinder vehicle. The V-8 parts will bolt up in place of their six-cylinder counterparts, thus most V-8 conversions include the front end and rear axle along with the V-8 engine. If you decide to retain the smaller components, just remember they cannot tolerate hard usage
Cleveland For '68I have a '68 Mustang fastback with a transplanted 351 Cleveland. I have seen other '67-'68s with the 351C using stock hoods with larger air filters than mine. Due to the height of the engine, I have to use a hoodscoop to clear the air filter. I'd like to go back to the original GT hood. Is it as simple as an intake-manifold change? I would also like to add power steering and power brakes, but I'm afraid of clearance issues with the clutch. I had difficulties getting around the clutch linkage with the headers. Will there be any problems with the brake booster or power steering with the Cleveland setup?Daniel BaumDunedin, FL
A '68 Mustang engine bay has almost identical dimensions as the engine compartment in the '70 Mustang, which was available with the 351 Cleveland. Although Ford never built a 351C-equipped '68 Mustang, it is indeed a bolt-in swap. Any accessories, such as power steering or brakes, can be added to your fastback if the correct parts and hardware are utilized. The air filter should also fit without an intake-manifold swap. The most difficult part of the swap is clutch-linkage interference with the exhaust manifolds/headers; however, you have already taken care of that.
An air filter used with any high-rise manifold should fit under your hood without trouble. The typical Ford Hi-Po open-element air filter, with its chrome top and exposed filter, is a popular choice, and different height elements are available to aid with clearance issues. The filter is also available with a dropped base that lowers over the carb, again to gain hood clearance. I'd suggest the dropped-base filter with a wide 3-inch element for maximum filtering and airflow.
The power-steering pump, pulleys, and brackets for a 351C will work fine, and the necessary hoses will fit the '68 steering linkage. Power brakes will not interfere with the engine, so this is also a simple matter of obtaining the correct '68 brake parts.
Light Me UpHow and where were the GT fog lights hooked up to a power source when they were installed at the factory for '66 Mustangs? Also, did this hookup require the parking lights to be on in order to operate the fog lights? I am aware that the 10-amp circuit breaker was mounted to the underside of the windshield-wiper support with the hot lead going from it to the fog-light switch. The '66 Mustang wiring diagram I have omits a circuit and connector from an original harness that I plan to use, and makes some indeterminate references to wiring connections.Will HenricksVia the Internet
I agree, the published wiring diagrams are a bit unclear about GT fog-light connections. The diagram does not include the plugs in the factory rear-body harness; however, the information and wire color codes are correct.
The power source to the circuit breaker comes from an open underdash plug with a blue with black tracer wire that is always hot. This is the same source used to power the electric clock on Rally-Pac-equipped cars. The wiring diagram calls for the source to be the battery terminal on the starter relay. This will work, but it will require a long lead and a grommet where the wire passes through the firewall.
The parking lights do not have to be on in order to operate the fog lights, even though the black fog-light wire does indeed connect to the taillight circuit. The purpose of this connection is to illuminate the dash and taillights along with the fog light; thus, the fog-light switch powers the taillights, not the other way around. The fog-light harness is a jumper that plugs between the underdash and rear body harnesses in order to tap into the black taillight feed wires. There are also two different underdash harnesses, depending upon date of manufacture. One has a separate wire harness for the four-way flasher circuit. The second type is for later cars, which have the four-way harness as an integral part of the underdash harness. Due to these differences, I cannot be more specific, but if your fog lights are wired as follows, all will function correctly.
The fog-light switch has three wires: one gray, one black, and one blue-with-black tracer. Connect the black wire to the black wire in the rear body harness behind the driver-side kick panel, as this will power the tail and dash lights. Connect the gray wire to the fog lights, which will power the fog lights. Connectthe blue-with-black wire to the circuit breaker; this will serve as the fog-light-circuit power feed. Connect the other side of the circuit breaker to any always-hot 12-volt source, such as the battery terminal on the solenoid, the ignition switch, or a plug under the dash.
Send your questions to: Beyond the Basics, c/o Bob Aliberto, P.O. Box 205, Salt Point, NY 12578. E-mail us at email@example.com.