Bob Aliberto
March 1, 2001

Long Time No See!My '66 Mustang (titled as a '65) has been sitting in my garage for about 10 years. I have not driven or even started it in that time. I am a longtime reader of Mustang Monthly, and I recall reading an article about the proper way to fire up a car that has been sitting for a long period of time. Can you tell me which issue the article appeared in? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.Lewis LaskaNashville

P.S. If there is no such article, may I suggest you write one? Perhaps it will help someone properly get my car in running order. I promise I will never, ever be bad again.

This subject has been discussed a few times throughout the years, and obviously, the extent of the procedures vary, depending upon the vehicle's condition after storage.

Your Mustang should be easy to fire up, as long as it was stored indoors-so that the engine is free and the fuel system has not totally deteriorated from stale gasoline. Gasoline leaves behind a nasty gummy, varnish-type material that will clog the carburetor and rot any rubber parts, such as hoses and internal fuel pump and carb seals. Drain the fuel tank to remove any old gas and to determine just how stale the gasoline is. Tank removal and flushing will be necessary in extreme cases; however, a quick drain and a refill with fresh fuel is usually all that's needed.

A fresh, hot battery will be needed, since a long cranking period may be necessary to draw fuel and to build up the compression and the oil pressure. I suggest you remove the spark plugs and squirt some thin oil into the cylinders to lube them and to help seal the compression rings. With fresh engine oil and a new filter, spin the engine over with the plugs removed until oil pressure is developed.

Be certain to pull a primary wire off the coil to prevent spark. If spark is not present, install a new set of points and a new condenser or a new electronic ignition. You may want to remove the fuel line from the carb and catch the first fuel coming out to prevent old fuel and debris from entering the carb. Once the fuel system is flushed and oil pressure is up, install a new set of spark plugs and check the radiator and all other fluid levels, then start the engine. Let the engine reach operating temperature without high revs, and observe the thermostat operation, while looking for any leaks. Some smoke will be present while the oil that was squirted into the cylinder burns away-but this will disappear in short order. Some valve clatter may be heard from a stroking hydraulic lifter, but this too should quickly go away.

BlinkyI have a '65 Hi-Po GT that is almost fully restored, but I have one nagging problem. The foglights turn on OK, but if you leave them on for a reasonable amount of time (about 20 minutes), they blink on and off. They have done this as long as I have owned the car. I thought it was a grounding problem, so when we redid the engine compartment, I made sure it grounded against the radiator support. Is there some type of fuse that I don't know about, or should I have replaced the light harness when we restored the car?

I enjoy your column and would appreciate any help you can give me.Bill KriegerElk Grove, IL

Your foglights are protected by a temperature-sensitive circuit breaker, usually mounted to the windshield wiper-mounting bracket under the dash. As time goes on, the circuit breaker can deteriorate and no longer carry its normal load. In your case, it takes about 20 minutes for the circuit breaker to overheat and open. Then as the circuit breaker cools, it closes-supplying the lights with power until it heats up again, effectively turning the lights on and off. A new 10-amp circuit breaker, available from most parts vendors or your local auto parts supply house, will correct your problem. The circuit breaker may be located on the starter solenoid under the hood, depending upon the factory or individual foglight installation

Headed In The Right DirectionI own a '67 S-code GT convertible. I had aftermarket headers on for a while but became tired of the small exhaust leaks and the flanges riding so low to the pavement. I ended up taking them off and replacing the stock exhaust manifolds. I miss the power and the sound, though. I am thinking about using a pair of Ford cast-iron headers. I saw a photo of one on a 406 in the July 2000 issue on page 22, which Jeff Ford reported was identical to a 390. My heads are two-hole-per-exhaust-port heads, so which type of cast-iron headers would mount up, and of those, which would fit the Mustang chassis without modification? Or must I switch to 428 four-hole heads?

Second, with the price of gas lately, I am looking for ways to cut back. During the European Mustang run across America in the mid-'80s, I still recall a '68 Shelby GT500 matched up with a five-speed manual transmission. Which type might that be? My car originally came with a four-speed, but I recently dropped in a C6 auto for get-around-town ease. Is there a five-speed manual available? How about an AOD? I don't want to make any serious modifications to the car. I am really looking for something I can drop in that can get the engine revs back down, while cruising down the highway.

Third, it is a nonair car, but I am considering investing in an A/C system. How will the value of the car be affected if I opt for an aftermarket, nonoriginal in-dash unit, as opposed to spending an additional $700-$800 to install a more original-type system? My car is a daily driver with minimal modifications (a rear sway bar, traction bars, an aftermarket Holley carb, a '67 PI high-rise aluminum intake manifold, and dual mufflers, among other things) but has otherwise retained a pretty stock appearance. Your opinion would be appreciated.

Last, also on page 22 of the July 2000 issue, the finned taillight panel on the '67 fastback has fins all the way across the taillights. Mine doesn't. What gives?

Please include a year's subscription with your answers. You guys are great!Eric HeitmanHolland, MI

Free-flowing cast-iron manifolds will indeed increase your performance, compared to the restrictive stock units. I suggest you obtain a set of 428 Cobra Jet manifolds, since they are similar to the 406 units you mention; however, they are designed to fit the Mustang chassis. The exhaust H-pipe will also have to be changed, because the manifolds are much longer than the stock pieces. They should bolt to your existing cylinder heads with no problem.

Five-speed overdrive transmissions from late-model Mustangs have been adapted to early Mustang chassis for many years now. Most are behind small-block V-8 engines; however, big-block transmissions utilize the same bolt pattern and are otherwise dimensionally identical to their small-block counterparts, except for the input shaft length. I'm sure a five-speed could be installed with the correct length pilot bushing and correct bellhousing spacer available from most Mustang suppliers. A better and stronger swap would be an automatic/overdrive unit available from LenTech Automatics in Ontario, Canada. The folks at Lentech have developed the AOD transmission to handle any situation and can custom-make a unit to fit in any application. Call Len Bertrand at (613) 838-5390.

The installation of a nonoriginal A/C unit will not hurt the value of your vehicle, in my opinion. Since you are not worried about car show points and the quality of the new add-on units, duplicate the factory system in both appearance and function. I think the addition of A/C is a wise choice.

The taillight panel pictured in the July 2000 issue is not the piece actually produced by Ford. I assume the photo is of an early prototype used to promote the future '67 models.

FMXERI am presently restoring a '72 Mach 1 (2F05F154979) with a 302ci 2V and automatic FMX transmission. This trans is factory issued, and I would like whatever information you might have on this transmission. Mainly, I would like to know the spline number and crank pilot. Was there more than one FMX transmission for this model year?

I've been a loyal subscriber of your magazine for years and truly enjoy the magazine. Thanks for your help.Ray WinninghamRawlins, WY

The FMX transmission used in your Mach 1 is the last generation of the old cast-iron Cruise-O-Matic that Ford used since the '50s. It's a very rugged, reliable unit. In fact, its planetary train is the basis for the modern AOD transmissions used today.

The Ford master parts catalog lists a few different FMXs for 1972; however, they are the same basic unit with only valvebody and governor calibration differences. They all have the same number of splines on the input shaft and share a 1.375-inch-diameter crank pilot, common to all Ford small-block engines.

The FMX is rarely used in racing applications, since the lighter and less complex C4 and C6 units are more popular. Contact the folks at LenTech Automatics [(613) 838-5390] for parts or more information. LenTech specializes in Ford automatic transmissions.

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