Inline Six Performance
Dave Stribling
September 16, 2016

Inline Six Performance

Do you know what has become of Classic Inlines? We have a 1967 Mustang hardtop with a 200ci inline-six and we were buying upgrade parts from Classic Inlines. Unfortunately, the owner passed away before we could finish our project. We needed to buy his headers and exhaust system. Is there a way to find out who the manufacturer of these parts are or were if Classic Inlines do not return to an active business? Please advise best you can and provide any ideas on a good quality stainless steel header and exhaust system to suit our car. We have heard that the Scott Drake header rubs against the starter motor. Thank you.

Ian (last name withheld)
Via the Internet

We lost a big resource with the passing of Mike Winterboer, the owner of Classic Inlines. Matt Cox and his crew up at Vintage Inlines ( in Michigan are trying to pick up where Classic Inlines left off. They did get to purchase the remainder of the inventory and are working on getting some of the tooling and other items, so give Matt a shout.

I don't have any experience with the Scott Drake headers, so I cannot tell you whether they fit well or not, but Drake does very good work, and if there was a fitment issue early on, you might check with them and see if they have the problem corrected. Hooker still makes a ceramic-coated header for the small Ford inline-six application, as well ( Clifford Performance ( still makes its line of inline performance parts and the company has a header for the 200ci Ford. There is a stainless steel 6-2-1 setup floating around eBay and Amazon, but they don't really say who makes it. It may be an offshore setup. I hope one of those sources can help you get your straight six up and running.

Weatherstrip Secrets

The trunk seal keeps pulling off of the trunk lid on my 1965 Mustang. I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, but the seal just peels right off. Any hints for a better installation that will last?

Jenny (last name withheld)
Indianapolis, Indiana

I have had the same problem myself with the new weather stripping. It is definitely of a different durometer (density and sponginess), and there are two sources making the seals for early Mustangs. It is possible there may be manufacturing differences between the two, as well. It is also entirely possible that 3M changed the formula of the adhesive, but that appears to stick to the paint and anything else you don’t want it on just fine.

One thing you should do is make sure you get all the mold release off the rubber before you install it. The mold release keeps it from sticking to the mold, which means it won’t let glue stick either. I used to apply rubbing alcohol, but now I use both lacquer thinner and rubbing alcohol and really clean them well. I also notice the seals are much shinier (due to a different rubber used), and in my own frustration, I have taken to scuffing up the side that gets glued down to take the shininess off the rubber. This really seems to help with adhesion.

Finally, I used to let a coat of adhesive dry on the seal before adding another layer and installing. A friend told me to apply the second layer of adhesive while the first is still tacky, and this seems to really work well. So, clean the seals well, scuff the seal enough to get rid of the shiny surface (but not to shred it), and lay down a tacky layer of adhesive before applying a thin layer to attach the seal. These tips should help the seals hold like a champ.