1 Ford Mustang 2
Dave Stribling
June 27, 2016

Mustang II Parts

I really enjoyed reading Rob Kinnan’s story about the road trip in Rodney, the under-appreciated Mustang II. I know first-hand how hard it is to find parts for my 1976 hatchback (302 with a four-speed). I can’t seem to locate motor mounts or clutch assemblies for it. Any help would certainly be appreciated.

Dave Hogan
Via the Internet

The clutch, motor mounts, oil pan, radiator, and a slew of other items are unique to the V-8 Mustang IIs. Unfortunately, the platform just wasn’t strong enough to get the aftermarket parts rolling and have any legs to hang around. I did a heavy search and checked with my II gurus and came up empty. For the motor mounts, the best option out there right now is to rebuild the originals that you have. (If you don’t have them, you’re going to pay dearly for replacements, so originals seem to be the best option.) You can rebuild the original mounts using a urethane insert designed by Brett McHugh and marketed through SSC Enterprises in the United States (sscenterprises.net). SSC also has an eBay store where you can purchase the inserts. Just reuse your original upper and lower metal parts with the inserts.

There are a couple of popular options for the clutch. It’s a smaller 10-inch clutch, similar to the Fox body setup. If you still have your old clutch or want to keep it all original, you can get it rebuilt as long as it is not too bad. Fort Wayne Clutch and Driveline (fortwayneclutch.com; (800) 258-8243) can rebuild your original clutch if the pressure plate is not too far gone. Rarely do they have one in stock, so plan on getting yours rebuilt. If you are not too worried about originality, the current popular option is to machine your flywheel to the Fox body bolt pattern. Any competent machine shop can do this for you, and after it’s in, you can choose from a variety of clutches.

Broken Seat Stop

I have a 1967 Mustang with driver’s seat issues. The set screw (left side if you're looking from the back) broke the bottom seat frame, and while you can sit and drive about, the seat back reclines back quite far due to the failure. I’ve tried several times to fix it, and I would just buy a new frame and re-upholster it, but TMI does not make the same color pattern anymore. So, I’ve been trying to fix it through the small hole it left in the upholstery using some JB Weld on a thin steel plate that connects the two halves. Next step is welding it, I suppose, but I’m not entirely sure how I’ll be able to do so. Any advice?

A Mustang Monthly reader

There is way too much pressure on the adjustment pin, and as a result, JB Weld isn’t going to help keep the post in place. Your best bet is to remove the seat cover, have the frame welded back up, and then re-install the seat upholstery. The upholstery is held on with hog rings, so you can carefully cut the rings free and pull the upholstery off. Be careful not to cut through any of the wire inserts in the upholstery that hold the middle of the covers to the frame. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, most upholstery shops can do this for you. They can reinstall the cover and make it look like it never came off. Make sure you check out Jim Smart’s article on upholstering seats on Mustang-360 at www.mustang-360.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-0905-how-to-reupholster-seats.

As a side note, I had a similar problem several years ago on an Ivy Gold interior. I had the original door panels, but decided to change them to new panels. The originals were Dark Ivy, but the replacements were Light Ivy. I called the supplier and the company made me a set in the Dark Ivy at no extra cost. It was a standard color, and they were happy to do it. My point, even if TMI or Distinctive don’t currently have the color combination you are looking for, they probably can make it for you. There were a lot of two-tone setups in 1967, and they can probably make you what you need. I would call them direct and ask if you need a new seat cover.