Muscle Mustangs & Fast FordsHow To Tech Qa
What's the Weight Difference Between a 5.0L and Aluminator Coyote?
Yo Ken! - Answering your technical questions
I have a question regarding engine weights. What’s the true weight difference between the same car with a either a traditional pushrod 302 5.0L versus the Aluminator Coyote? There are weights listed at various sources online, but I doubt those numbers paint an accurate picture of the true weight difference between the two as a complete, installed package. For instance, is the listed weight of the pushrod engine taking in to account things like the smog pump? I’m guessing not. As far as I know, one is not required on the modern OHC engines, and would represent a pretty decent chunk of weight to factor in. So to be specific, comparing a typical mild street pushrod EFI 5.0L, something with aluminum heads, fully dressed, and 50-state emissions legal versus the Coyote engine and what all it needs to work installed in a Fox body car, can you tell me which setup is going to make for a lighter/heavier car and by approximately how much? Thanks.
The engine assembly on a traditional Fox-Body 5.0L weighs 411 pounds. This is without accessories like smog, power steering, A/C, alternator, and flywheel or flexplate. It is considered a dry weight. The Coyote without accessories weighs 444 pounds as listed in the Ford Racing Parts catalog. The old 5.0s are hard to get exact weights for and can range between 411 and 460 pounds. In my research I believe that 411 pounds is correct for an old 5.0L dry engine weight. Both engines come with stainless exhaust, but the Coyote does have a manual flywheel weighing 23 pounds. All things being pretty equal in dry weight, the Coyote weighs 421 pounds sans flywheel and the 5.0L is 411 pounds. It would be a wash in my book when all accessories are added to their respective engines.
I have a 2005 Mustang GT five-speed manual and I am looking to upgrade the two-piece driveshaft. I have heard that they free some horsepower but I could develop a driveline vibration if I go to a one-piece setup. It’s a daily driver, and I don’t want to upgrade it if the vibration is too bad. Any help would be great if it is worth the swap. My car is stock except for a tune and exhaust.
The stock two-piece driveshaft weighs about 47 pounds. The aftermarket comes in about 18-20 pounds for an aluminum one-piece driveshaft. There is a gain in power through less rotating mass, but unless yours is a high-horsepower application I suggest you stick with the stock setup. Harmonics are greatly reduced with the factory two-piece and is why Ford choose to go that route. Vibration issues are not uncommon, but many quality driveline companies have solved most harmonic problems—but it can get expensive. For the money versus performance gain, it does not make much sense to upgrade on a basically stock daily driver.
If I want to get more power out of my 2001 GT 4.6L without going to a power adder, are there basic bolts-ons I can use? I’m pretty handy with a wrench, so swapping heads, intakes, and cams would not be a problem.
A cylinder head swap will give you the biggest gain in power. Upgrading the cams, intake, and exhaust will make it a total package with gains up to 150 hp. I suggest contacting Trick Flow Specialties (trickflow.com), which can supply everything you need for your 4.6L. Trick Flow has dyno numbers on many packages to make choosing the right parts easy. Remember that you must get a custom tune to get the most out of your upgrades.
I have a 1988 LX with a five-speed. The engine spun a rod bearing and broke a rod. Would a 4.6L 3V with the Ford Racing control pack work? And is that all I need as far as the ECU goes? Are there any issues I should be aware of?
Any engine swap that is not the factory engine will have some issues. For the 4.6L 3V, Ford has made this as hassle-free as possible. Ford offers a standalone engine controls package to retrofit the engines into older cars. There are some other issues to worry about, like exhaust and air intake, but the 3V will bolt in—just be prepared for a little fabrication.
I have an off road X-pipe on my 2004 Mach 1 with a complete exhaust system, and the car is loud. I like it, but the local police don’t like it as much as I do, and they have been warning me about it. What can you recommend I do to tone it down just a bit and not lose performance?
The best way to get the sound down to a police-friendly level is to put the catalytic converters back on. High-flow cats have very little flow restriction for your application. Engines that are mildly modified get very little benefit from using an off-road X-pipe, if any. The horsepower gain is minimal on mostly stock engines. In some cases the backpressure caused by the cats (which is small) helps the low-end performance. You can go with more restrictive mufflers, but you will lose some performance. The cats are the way to go and will give you the milder tone you are looking for.