Audio System
June 6, 2014

Sound Off

I'm getting ready to install a new Retro Sound Model Two system with kick panel and package tray speakers. What sort of problems can I expect to encounter with my electrical system and fuse box ailments? Should I expect fuses to “object” to the new audio system's electrical requirements or will I get lucky and just plug-and-play and impress all the ladies?

Leonard R. Jenkins
Via the Internet

If you didn't catch the RetroSound Model Two install we performed in the January 2014 issue you can find the article on our website for some installation pointers, as we performed the exact same install (except we did door speakers versus kick panel speakers). The RetroSound radios utilize a 15-amp modern ATO blade fuse. You didn't mention what year your Mustang is, but regardless we'd suggest wiring the switched power wire directly to the ignition switch's accessory stud/terminal. The constant memory wire will require 12-volts at all times to retain clock, channel memory, and other functions. We normally wire that circuit to the constant hot side of the dome lamp wiring, either at the headlight switch or one of the door pin switches (easy if you're doing kick panel speakers too).


All Choked Up

For two years now I have owned a '66 Mustang hardtop. It has the base 200ci inline-six with a three-speed manual. After I bought the car north of Seattle (I was 15 at the time) I realized that a number of years before the car was likely “T-boned” on the driver's side, as I had discovered that the VIN on the door and the VIN on the left fender apron did not match. After doing some research, I found that the door was replaced and came from a Caspian blue '65 A-code hardtop. Is there a build plate (or sheet) somewhere in/on the car to track down the car's original color, DSO, etc.? The VIN is 6F07T188579. Also, my carburetor and choke are having issues. When my parents and I purchased the car, we didn't know the car had a carb off of an automatic, plus it had serious issues with leaking gas. We replaced it with the correct carb and now when I start the car it idles fine with the choke half-in, but as soon as I push the choke all the way in the car dies. I am unsure of why this happens. Any help with answering these questions would be greatly appreciated.

Shane Lewis
Via the Internet

Replacement of the driver's door due to accident damage is more common than you think and is a real problem for '65-'66 Mustang owners looking for build information about their vehicles. While the VIN only tells you that your Mustang is a '66 model built at the Dearborn plant and equipped with the inline-six, the door data tag could offer up so much more if it was still there. Sadly, unless you can find the original build sheet in the car (highly unlikely closing in on 50 years old) the actual build information is possibly lost forever.

As for your carb's choke issue, it is entirely possible you are opening the choke too soon. With a manual choke you need to “learn” the feel of the engine and if it is bogging down or running rich due to too much or too little choke. Drive the car a bit before pushing the choke in more and see what happens. Alternatively you could add an electric choke kit to the carb and forget all about playing with a manual choke push/pull cable.


Fitting the Big Six

I have a '67 mustang with a 200ci inline-six. I was wondering if you know or have done an engine swap using Ford's 300ci inline-six with fuel injection from the F-series truck? I know I have seen articles on V-8 swaps, but has anyone done an article on a bigger inline-six swap? Are there kits for this with engine mounts, etc? I remember reading something about Clifford engine mounts for early mustangs so you could do this type of swap. Let me know, as I would be interested if you guys have any info on this matter. Thanks!

Jackson Vaughan
Olive Branch, MS

Can it be done? In a short answer—yes. The long answer though is it is far from a bolt-in. The Clifford parts are long gone and the crew from Classic Inlines has very little for such a swap, as they prefer a built 200ci inline-six or a swap to the 250ci inline-six. The 300 is a much bigger engine and if you plan to keep the truck's tall EFI manifold you'd be looking at running sans hood. If you really want to do the swap plan on fabbing mounts, addressing cooling concerns, and firewall to engine fitment.


Let us hear from you.
Send your '65-'73 Mustang questions to: Beyond Basics, c/o Bob Aliberto, P.O. Box 205, Salt Point, NY 12578. Send email to mustang.monthly@sorc.com.