5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Tech Questions and Answers - March 2014
Which Cam Would Be Better Than The Stock One...?
Q The Oct. '13 issue Project Shocker article states: “...we determined that we could not convince the Windsor-swap headers to fit.” I have a similar project in the works—a '93 Mustang with 351 Windsor and Dynamic Trans C-4 mated to JW Ultra-Bell, along with a TCI trans-shield.
I have been trying to figure out what headers to use. I'm wondering what specific issues were encountered and which brands were actually tried. Initially I thought this would be a common enough setup that it would be easy to find what works. At this point, I would really appreciate learning what you've discovered will not work.
A Sharad Raldiris says there were several components that affected header fitment for his Project Shocker LX. “First, the UPR Products K-member has two slots for the motor mount studs. We used the rear slots which placed the Windsor block closer to the firewall. Our 7-quart Moroso oil pan required using stock-height motor mounts in order to clear the steering rack, rather than the drop-style mounts that are commonly used with Windsor swaps (to improve hood clearance). Lastly, our Trick Flow High-Port CNC cylinder heads feature exhaust ports that are raised 0.750-inch over the stock port location.
"These factors likely placed the exhaust ports higher and farther back than their typical location in a Windsor-swapped Fox Mustang. After several hours of modification, we were finally able to physically bolt our Windsor-swap headers to the cylinder heads. However, it unfortunately was impossible to install the steering shaft at that point, so we opted for custom-fabricated, stainless-steel headers from Tig Vision Welding."
Q I need some help with putting together the right components for my '91 Mustang GT. The car currently has a stock 302, and I have GT-40P heads that I'm going to have ported. Which cam would be better than the stock one? Also, what spring kit should I run? I also have BBK long-tubes, Flowmasters, a GT-40 intake, and I'm adding a 65mm or 75mm throttle body and a bigger mass air and injectors.
Any help or information would be great. I love the magazine, just please keep doing Foxes and some stuff that the average guy can do and afford. Thanks.
A Consider using Comp Cam's Xtreme Energy XE270HR hydraulic-roller camshaft (PN-35-324-8; $297.78), dual valvesprings (PN 987-16; $94.82), and a set of 1.7-ratio rocker arms (PN 1450-16; $169.29) for your 'Stang's GT-40P/GT-40 induction setup. The cam is designed for standard-bore 5.0s with the mods that yours currently has or will have (heads/intake, larger throttle body and mass airflow sensor), and it will work well within the combination's 1,800-5,800 rev parameters.
Q I'm running a 347 stroker in my '87 Fox with a Comp Cams roller cam, GT-40 heads, and BBK short-tube headers, I need to know what oxygen sensors to use. Please help.
A Based on the modifications you describe, installing a set of aftermarket wide-band O2 sensors is a great addition for helping you accurately tune your '87's stroker. The engine's additional cubic inches, intake/exhaust-air improvements, and power adder (if you ever install one) necessitate being able to see a broader air/fuel range than the OEM narrow-band sensors' 14.5:1-to-15.0:1. The wideband sensors allow you to keep tabs on richer and leaner ratios (from approximately 9.0:1-to-20.0:1) that come about through engine upgrades, and calibrate accordingly to ensure air/fuel is perfect.
There are several wideband O2 sensor-and-gauge packages that work well with modified 'Stang engines. Innovate's standalone, wideband O2 and gauge kit is a system we tested a few years ago. The setup features the popular Bosch five-wire O2 sensor, as well as Innovate's LC-2 wideband controller and 21⁄16-inch G3 analog gauge. Once installed, you'll find having such an accurate air/fuel reading to be invaluable for properly dialing-in your engine's performance nand efficiency.
Q My '90 LX has almost 200,000 miles. The car runs remarkably well for its age and mileage, but the suspension and steering do feel sort of loose. The main problem is there's quite a bit of play and sloppiness in the steering wheel, but I can tell the issue isn't with the rack-and-pinion or the power-steering pump. I'm looking for an affordable way to repair the actual steering shaft, as I have pinpointed the problem to the rag joint/knuckle. However, I really want to avoid paying more than a hundred bucks for a new steering-shaft assembly. Can the stock system be rebuilt?
Via the Internet
A Yes, you can rejuvenate the factory steering gear without having to purchase a replacement steering shaft, OEM or aftermarket. Latemodel Restoration (www.latemodelrestoration.com) offers a bolt-in rag-joint set for about $10 (PN DOR-31000). The LMR rag joint features a new, thick rubber disc that serves as a dampening coupler for the steering shaft and will restore solid steering performance to your LX. Once the rivets that secure the original isolator are removed (this is probably the most labor-intensive effort in the entire project), the new piece installs in only a few minutes, using the supplied hardware and basic tools.
Virgin of the Month
Q Do I have to run a TV cable for my AOD transmission, or can it be left off? My car is a '95 GT with a 331. I just had the transmission rebuilt. If I have to keep the cable, how do I make sure it's adjusted right?
Silver Spring, MD
A First and foremost, yes, you have to maintain the TV cable, as it basically controls fluid pressure in the transmission's valvebody and modulates each shift's timing (at a specific engine rpm) and quality (firmness). To adjust the cable, attach it to the throttle body linkage while the transmission is in Park, and adjust it until there is no slack whatsoever. This is the best procedure for establishing base shift points for your AOD. When you choose to raise the shift points, simply make the TV cable tighter.