Mustang MonthlyHow To Paint Body
1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 & 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible - Resto Roundup
Baaaad BossI own a Boss 429, KK 1466-an old, race-ravaged Mustang. The floors are missing, it has been tubbed and rollcaged, the inner fenders have been cut up, there are braces through the original shock towers, the firewall was replaced for weight, the torque boxes cut, and drum brakes replaced the original discs. The fenders and hood are now fiberglass. I bought another '69 shell for parts. My question is, should I remove the original shock towers, the door with the correct tag, the upper and lower A-arms, and rebody the car, or should I remove the parts from the new shell and restore the original body?
This car is really torn up, and it will take thousands of dollars and many years to make it what it was. If it is rebodied, how much will the value suffer? I am interested in your suggestions.John R. BarnesBeaumont, TX
Restoring an ex-racecar back to concours condition can be time-consuming and costly. Often, the body repairs are major, but even more costly are the missing rare and unique Boss 429 detail parts, such as the thermactor system and the air cleaner assemblies, to mention only a few items.
The biggest, positive aspect may be the rust-free condition of the body, due to few road miles and/or lack of exposure to the elements.
If concours events are your intentions, this particular Boss 429 may not be a good candidate to restore from a financial standpoint. The cost to restore the car will probably surpass its finished value. If a clean, rust-free restomod is your preference, your car is an excellent candidate.
The value of your Boss 429 will be diminished if it is rebodied; however, the valve will be affected less on a nonconcours restoration.
Because of the many unique body features on the Boss 429 Mustang, it would be a major undertaking to rebody. The entire front clip from the firewall forward is unique to the Boss 429. The rear framerails and quarter-panels also have modifications.
I suggest you use the original body and use original sheetmetal from another '69 Mustang to make repairs to the sheetmetal that has been cut during its racing days. Using the donor sheetmetal from the parts car instead of reproduction sheetmetal will make a superior repair.
Biased To TiresI have a '66 Mustang convertible that is an original survivor. The car has 42,000 original miles and most of its original exterior black paint. I've tried to keep the car as authentic as possible; however, I do have a few reproduction pieces under the hood, such as the battery and the battery cables.
I currently have radial tires on the car, which I would like to change to the old-style bias-ply to create that '60s look to match the rest of the car. I'm not sure what size and brand of tire I should purchase. I have seen Firestone, Goodyear, and BFGoodrich in reproduction.
What was the most popular brand originally used on '66 Mustangs? What brand do you recommend?Johnny CrossMemphis
All '66 Mustangs came with 6.95x14 tires. During the '66 model year, Firestone, Goodyear, BFGoodrich, U.S. Royal, and General brand tires were used.
The only manufacturer of the dual-redline tire was U.S. Royal. If you decide to use redline tires, make sure you use the U.S. Royal brand. Firestone, Goodyear, BFGoodrich, and General offered white sidewall and black sidewall tires.
During the '66 model year, Firestone and Goodyear were probably the most popular brand names used.
All 289 K-code Mustangs came with U.S. Royal redlines as standard equipment. The dual redlines were also optional on non-K-code Mustangs at extra cost.
I like the Goodyear reproduction 6.95x14 for most applications. On 289 K-codes, the only correct redline is the U.S. Royal reproduction. Dual redlines look great on a black convertible.
Magic CarpetI have a question concerning what product you would recommend to restore an original carpet set from an unrestored '68 Mustang. I have a '68 302 convertible that still has the original black carpet set. The carpet is slightly faded on the hump in the center. The blade has actually faded to a dark, maroon-looking color; otherwise, the carpet is in mint condition.
Is there a special carpet dye you can recommend to return the carpet to its original color? I know that new carpet is available at minimal expense, but I would prefer to keep the car as original as possible. Looking forward to your response.Tim JacksonMeridian, MS
The product I use for carpet dye is Ditzler DMV 14 vinyl mixing base. The color is carbon black.
This product is applied with a body shop-type spray gun. No reduction is necessary; simply spray right out of the can.
Beware that this product is a base color rather than a custom-black-mix color. The coverage is exceptional, because one light coat usually is enough for full coverage.
Because of the one-coat coverage, the carpet will remain soft and look like new again. The key to this ingredient is the deep pigment for one-coat coverage.
Oils well . . .After finding my buildsheet under the seat of my '69 Shelby, I discovered that it was oil-soaked and unreadable. What solvent can I use to remove the oil from the buildsheet?Karl DeBusTinley Park, IL
I use Ditzler DX 330 or DX 440 wax and grease remover to clean buildsheets. I use a flat, rectangular pan to lay the buildsheet flat in and fill the pan to completely submerge the buildsheet. The solvent will clean the buildsheet without damaging the paper. I would not recommend trying to rub or clean the buildsheet while it is in the solvent. Be patient and let the solvent do its job. If your buildsheet is extremely stained, you may need to soak it twice in clean DX for best results.
Tags!While attending the Mustang Club of America Grand National in Raleigh, North Carolina, I observed several '69-'70 Mustangs that had new tags and stickers with the engineering numbers for the wiring and various other components. My Boss still has most of the wiring harness tags, but they are extremely brittle and faded. I would like to know who sells these items. I heard that Ed Meyer has them, but I don't know how to contact him. Please pass on the information, if you have it. I'm sure other readers would be interested.Buddy JonesTampa
The person you need to contact is David Walden from E.C.S. Automotive Concepts, LLC, 580 Autumn Bluff Dr., Ellisville, MO 63021. The telephone/fax number is (636) 207-7767. E.C.S. has a color catalog with pictures of all the tags and decals. The catalog also lists the location of the tag, which is helpful to restorers. We receive many calls on locations of the various stickers and tags for all-model Mustangs here at the shop.
The quality of E.C.S. products is excellent, in my opinion. The products are MCA-approved and Ford Motor Company-licensed as well. Ed Meyer was instrumental in supplying original examples of various tags, among other things, to E.C.S.; however, Ed is not involved in the retail sales; for that, you'll need to contact SEMO Mustang at (573) 243-7664.
Home Office QuestionsTech Editor, Mark Houlahan asked me what the stamps for the '66 "PAINT OK" looked like. I figured that if anyone out there would know, it would be you! So, you got any ideas? I told him we should just do one that said "PAINT OK Booger," but for some reason, he demurred.Jeff Ford, Editor
Enclosed is a copy of my '66 "Paint OK" stamp for your project Mustang. I've also included a copy of the "Trim OK" stamp. This stamp was usually on the inner fender, not the fender near the hood-hinge area. The paint color is usually yellow or white.
Send restoration questions to:Resto Roundupc/o Bob PerkinsPerkins RestorationNorth 3123Highway 16 & 26Juneau, WI 53039