Dale Amy
August 1, 2002

Step By Step

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Though it may not quiver as much on a silky modular as the original did on the raucous old 428CJ, Classic Design Concepts’ Shaker is about the coolest reason we can think of to cut a hole in the middle of your hood.
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Here’s the underhood portion of the ’99-up GT kit. The Shaker itself is a cast-aluminum reproduction of the original FoMoCo piece, circa 1969. The black- finished upper and lower airboxes and duct are resin-transfer moldings (RTM) of outstanding quality. The kit includes all mounting hardware, drain hoses, and a nicely detailed installation guide.
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The kit’s hood appliqué is also RTM, and is shipped in primer so the customer can choose whether to paint it body color or matte black, as we did for installation on our subject black ’01 GT. Not shown is the included template used to cut and drill the hood for the appliqué.
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Mounting the hood appliqué comes first, in preparation for which the 10 plastic fasteners securing the underhood insulation pad are removed. We just let the pad sit atop the engine while we cut and drill the hood. With the pad dropped, the factory hoodscoop on our GT is also unbolted and tossed.
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The next step is to tape the hood template in place. Properly locating it is easy, as it lines up with the rear edge of the hood’s character bulge, and the sides follow the contours of the hood’s center indentation. The template will be used to drill eight mounting holes and to cut out the hole for the Shaker itself.
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We propped a paint can under the snout of the hood to provide clearance, so the upcoming drilling and sawing will affect only the hood and not something important underneath.
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For the cutout, drill a pilot hole inside the template marking to get started. Then follow the line with a jigsaw or air-saw (the template also serves to protect the paint while doing this). Cutting the hood’s sheet-molded composite material is easy. Don’t worry about exact precision as the kit’s hood appliqué will render the hole completely invisible.
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Leave the template in place as you drill the eight 5/16-inch mounting holes through which the appliqué will be secured. In this shot, the template has been removed after all drilling and cutting. The foil topside of the underhood insulator pad is visible through the cutout.
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The three holes drilled across the cowl edge of the hood have to pass through both the hood skin and the reinforcing layer beneath. From beneath, using these three holes as pilots, the reinforcing layer is hole-sawed out to 1-inch diameter (just the reinforcing; not the hood skin). This is done to provide room to get a socket in, so that the appliqué’s cap screws can be tightened.
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The appliqué can now be set in place. Insert its eight mounting bolts from beneath. Make sure the appliqué is properly aligned before tightening them, and don’t overtighten.
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The appliqué is secured by eight bolts, six of which are 1/4-20x1/2 , and two of which are longer 1/4-20x1. The longer bolts go in the two holes immediately forward of the cutout. Use them anywhere else and you’ll poke them right out the top of the appliqué.
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Reinstall the underhood insulator pad. Using the appliqué as a template, cut away the necessary section of pad for the Shaker, then use the supplied weatherstrip to trim around the base of the appliqué, leaving a nice, finished look around the hole.
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Another template is supplied to mark the location of the cutout and the 7/16-inch holes that must be made in the factory airbox. These will be used to mate the airbox to the Shaker’s air duct. The airbox must be removed from the car for this surgery.
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With the cutout made, the duct and airbox are bolted together, the filter reinserted, and the whole assembly installed on the car.
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The two top bolts on the alternator brace are removed and replaced by ball studs that form part of the kit’s ingenious Shaker mounting and adjustment hardware. In this shot, the ball stud is in place on the right side (inset).
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The last of the three ball studs is on a kit-supplied bracket that bolts in place using factory hardware between the rear of the alternator bracket and the driver-side, front upper-to-lower intake bolt (arrows).
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The three ball studs mate with rubber receiver cups (arrows) in the Shaker’s lower airbox. The receiver cups are bolted to enlarged holes in the base to allow adjustment of the final Shaker position.
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Adjustment is accomplished by temporarily setting the upper airbox and aluminum Shaker in place atop the lower, closing the hood, and checking for even clearance around the Shaker.
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Once the Shaker is sitting square in its hole, remove it and its upper airbox. Tighten the bolts, locking the receiver cups in final position.
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Final assembly begins by placing the aluminum Shaker on its back and mating it to the upper airbox via two front bolts and a bolt through the bracket. Note the orientation of the bracket here, as this will be used to attach the lower airbox. The upper and lower airboxes are shipped with drain hoses attached.
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Next, pop the lower airbox off the car and fasten it to the upper using three long bolts in the remaining holes, and a short bolt and washer to the bracket. This shot is taken at the opposite end of the assembly from the previous shot. All that’s left is to mate the short sections of drain hoses to their extensions with the two supplied Y-fittings, and then pop the complete Shaker assembly back on the ball studs.
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The Shaker assembly certainly adds toughness to the GT’s underhood acreage. Be sure to route the drain hoses away from any extreme heat sources or moving parts. Then head over to the Exxon station and make the gas jockey envious.

Classic Design Concepts’ new Shaker is undeniably cool—in both form and function. It pays homage to a classic FoMoCo performance-styling cue first seen on the ’69 Mach 1, and a version of it will fittingly appear on the upcoming ’03 Mach 1. Heck, we’d buy it on looks alone, but the fact is, it also rams cooler, denser outside air into the modular Mustang’s inlet tract for increased power. How much power? We’d love to be able to produce a telling dyno sheet, but how do you test the effect of a ram-air device on a stationary dynamometer?

Instead, Paul Svinicki, who fits one to each and every ’02 Paul’s High Performance DragPak Mustang he builds, drag tested the Shaker on a couple different cars and found about a 2-percent improvement in e.t. ’Nuff said.

We were smitten by the Shaker the moment we first saw its prototype at the 2000 SEMA show, and we’ve been trying to bring you an install ever since. The reason for the lengthy delay is that CDC owner George Huisman is a raving perfectionist who has been continually fiddling with and honing final details of the extremely high-quality assembly. But the initial production version—for naturally aspirated ’99-up GTs—is finally ready for sale. Variants for Paxton- and Vortech-blown New-Edge GTs will follow, as will specific models for the Bullitt and Cobra.

Get one now for just $795—before George realizes how much more it should go for.

Horse Sense: Airflow from the original FoMoCo Shaker was easy—it gushed right into the waiting mouth of a Holley four-barrel. The new Shaker has to direct air into the factory airbox so it can be metered through the mass air.