Jeff Ford
July 1, 2000
Contributers: Jeff Ford

Step By Step

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The shaker that we received was in the condition as you see it. However, we ordered some new parts to upgrade it.
The snorkel was the only part we provided. Incredibly, this piece was still on the ’70 Mach when we bought it.
The stories this upper aluminum piece could tell. There are four unevenly spaced holes in the top of the ram-air scoop. Where they came from, Jeff Sneathen couldn’t tell you. Your guess is as good as ours. A quick trip to Dynamo Motorsports got these holes welded up and right as rain.
The shaker has two sets of holes at the front of the top cover. One is marked 2V and the other is marked 4V. Someone bungled the hole for the 4V version, but we decided to leave well enough alone—especially since we’re going to use the correct nuts to hold the shaker top to the base.
Someone also slotted the holes on the sides for reasons unbeknownst to us. Marks in the top of the shaker indicate the original location of the holes. This area was filled and redrilled.
Three screws are attached to plates in the shaker top plate to allow for adjustment in the hood hole. These screws will need to be removed in order to remove the scoop from the top plate.
Two of our three studs were broken off. Sneathen had available the original stud kit that Ford used, so we snagged one of these from him. We went after the flat, round base with a high-speed rotary tool and a No. 426 Dremel Fiberglass cut-off wheel. If you have to do this, then be careful and try not to cut the sheetmetal.
After we ground away the disc, we used a punch to remove the remaining threads from the hole.
We had to drill out the hole slightly larger so that the stud would fit. It was either that or bend the lip or do what we did for the front stud. Rather than send the base out for welding, we used some JB Weld (available at most parts houses) to attach the new stud.
The front stud was cut out similarly to the hole in the previous caption, but we had to slot the lip to install the new stud. JB Weld and the sliver of original metal were used here to fill the gap. We then put the top onto the base and aligned the studs in the holes. We used nuts to hold everything together, and walked away until the next day.
The inside of the shaker base was painted Corporate Blue. After the paint dried, we used some adhesive-back sand-paper to mask off the center as shown. This area was then painted semigloss black.
The shaker top had severe pitting on the sides under where the seal sits. Since we’re nitpicky, we chose to fill these, as well as the pits that were on the outer ring.
We painted the vacuum canister argent and let it dry overnight. After the canister dried, we taped it off to paint the remainder of the snorkel Corporate Blue. Ford also painted these items separately, but we’re not sure if they were dipped or sprayed. Whatever the case, we noticed several runs on ours when we bead-blasted it.
The air door had a bumper that helped to keep the noise down when the vacuum dropped off and the door opened. We weren’t sure what Ford used, and we defy anyone to see it when the car is at rest, so we just used an extra glovebox door bumper that we had available.
This plug is here in place of the hose connector for the evaporative-emissions system that was standard on the California cars in 1970. Luckily, our original air cleaner still had the plug.
At rest or under hard acceleration, the door flips open. Without the bumper, you will hear a metallic thump or click every time you romp on the car, assuming the vacuum valve is in good working order.
Let the detailing begin! We could see the faint outline of where this correct-looking Jim Osborn Reproduction decal was supposed to go. We placed it in the correct spot, giving the air cleaner that finished look. Note the stud that is protruding from the side of the housing. This is for the shaker bracket. We’ll get to this part once we’ve put in the engine and are closer to being finished.
The ram-air valve is placed in the slot.
The door is opened.
And the base is pop-riveted into position.
We had the aluminum top primed with a high-solids primer, and then we block-sanded the entire upper part of the assembly. Note that we polished the fins back to the aluminum. This will make it easier to remove the black and also will allow the aluminum to shine through.
For the first coat, we used a light coat of SEM trim black. We allowed 20 minutes between this coat and the second coat, which was heavier. The final coat was applied across the piece in a different direction from the first two coats. The inside was also painted with the trim black, though not as carefully as the outside.
The black was allowed to dry for two hours. Then we used a flat razor blade to remove the paint from the fins.
After using the razor, we went back in with a 220-wet/dry sandpaper and sanded the fins in one direction. Next we used a brush and some Nylac from Eastwood to protect the fins from oxidation.
Just for grins and to keep the bottom of the air cleaner base nice, we set it on a carburetor. Note the backside of the air horn. The bolts that hold this on should be silver cadmium—not painted the body color. Next we bolted the ram-air top down, along with the seal that Virginia Mustang provided. Finally, the scoop was loosely bolted to the top of the whole shootin’ match.
In the final analysis, the shaker looks 100-percent better than when we started. The addition of the correct fasteners, good paint, and metal work go to make the shaker look like a piece of auto art rather than a junk pile. This shaker will go nicely on the top of the 351 Cleveland that is destined for the ’70 Mach project.

You twist the key on the Mustang and the starter saws away at the flywheel, the engine spins, and fuel fills No. 1. Suddenly, the V-8 out front rumbles to life, and you hear the metallic snap of a ram-air door closing. You blip the throttle for one reason only—to see the shaker roll slightly right and to hear the ram-air door snap closed again as you suddenly release the throttle. The high-lift cam and cold engine make the shaker jiggle and shake. For some weird reason—known only to the most primal part of your mind—this is cool.

As we’ve said before, the ram-air shaker is an option that most performance-minded Mustang owners find fascinating and desirable. It’s just plain ol’ neat to have that big, black hoodscoop poking out of the middle of a ’69-’70 hood, and we managed to find an abused one through SEMO Mustang in Gordonville, Missouri. Ever since we bought the ’70 Mach project, we’ve been on the lookout for a rough (read inexpensive) example to restore. Jeff Sneathen of SEMO Mustang had one for right around $500, so we snapped it up. What we got for our hard-earned dinero was an abused but complete—mostly complete—unit. Sneathen had some nicer shakers available, but being the cheapskates that we are, we went with the least expensive one he had.