Wayne Cook
December 1, 1999

Step By Step

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Here is the new weatherstrip from Dearborn Classics. Around the outer edges are both door weatherstrips. Rolled up in the center is the trunk strip, and below it is the seal that goes underhood. The special fasteners for the door strips are also shown.
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From experience, we know it’s hard to beat 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. It’s also available in black, which makes mistakes a little easier to hide.
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A sharp gasket scraper is a good tool for scraping off the old weatherstrip material. If you’re working with a good paint job, be careful using this technique.
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On some vintage Fords, like our 1964 Fairlane, you’ll need to pop out this factory rivet to completely remove the old weatherstrip. A new fastener for this location is provided in the kit from Dearborn Classics.
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This wire wheel, used to remove the old adhesive, is very fine. If you’re trying to save existing paint, keep tight control of the wheel so any wire marks will be hidden by the new weatherstrip. Also, you may wish to consider using a weak solvent such as kerosene, which won’t harm your paint, to remove the old glue.
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The point where the new weatherstrip fastens to the door is a good place to begin its installation. Work your way slowly and carefully around the door. Be stingy with the adhesive because if it gets away from you it can get everywhere fast.
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Notice in this photo that the upper edge of the weatherstrip goes beneath the inboard lip of the outer chrome molding. The Dearborn Classics weatherstrip is formed in exactly the correct shape.
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Be sure you don’t stretch the weatherstrip, or the attachment studs won’t line up correctly with the holes in the bottom of the door. These studs are great because you don’t need to mess with tape to hold the weatherstrip in place while the glue dries.
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We can tell we’re on the money with our attachment because there’s no slack to be trimmed.
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Our Fairlane’s original underhood seal was long gone, but we still had to remove the old clips from the attachment holes. The new piece went into place as shown with no difficulty.
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The trunk weatherstrip fits into its channel as shown here. It’s a snug fit, and not much glue is required.
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The trunk weatherstrip is easy going; even around the corners it lies into position perfectly.
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On the trunk weatherstrip, there’s about two feet of extra material, so our Craftsman Handi-Cut gives us a nice, clean end to butt up against our beginning in the center of the opening.

New weatherstrip is one of the most important finishing touches you can add to your vintage Ford project. Not only does weatherstrip keep rain or car-wash water from leaking into the car's interior, it also keeps cold air out, quiets rattles, and eliminates wind noise. We know that weatherstrip is not high on anyone's list of dressup items, but have you ever seen a car that looks great until you open the doors to discover torn and tattered weatherstrip? For a finished look and quiet ride, you need weatherstrip on your car that's in excellent condition.

Our 1964 Fairlane’s original weatherstrip had deteriorated to the point where it crumbled into small pieces; in some places it was simply worn away. To renew the seals around the doors, trunk, and hood, we spoke with Dearborn Classics because they’re a great source for hard-to-find items for Fairlanes, Falcons, Torinos, and Rancheros. Dearborn’s complete set of weatherstrip includes strips for both doors and trunk, and also a splash seal for the cowl area underneath the rear of the hood.

If your car already has nice paint, be careful when removing the remains of the old weatherstrip. Also, be aware that our Fairlane post/sedan takes the weatherstrip on the doors themselves rather than in the opening. On a vintage Mustang, the new weatherstrip goes into the door opening rather than on the door itself.