Mark Houlahan
Tech Editor, Mustang Monthly
February 10, 2014
Photos By: Courtesy of Gillis Performance Restorations
13. Using the installed hood latch assembly as a guide, Brian welds the section of the ’67 bracket into place in the hood. The brake line tubing directly behind the nut welded in previously required notching to clear as the section was welded into place.
14. At this point, the hood latch and hood opening are roughly aligned and everything has taken shape. Now Brian simply needs to box in the remaining structure on the hood’s underside and make it look factory. The hood comes off and is transferred to a workbench for easier fabrication.
15. Brian painstakingly cuts and tack welds sections of sheetmetal into place until the new hood opening takes its final shape. Once all of the metal has been tacked in with the MIG welder, Brian takes several more passes, moving around to prevent warping the panels with too much heat, until all seams are fully welded.
16. After welding, Brian dresses the hood modification by grinding the welds down with a 50-grit disc on a 3-inch angle grinder. He follows those steps with an 80-grit disc on a DA sander. The hood is now ready for traditional paint prep and painting.
17. To fabricate the hood latch catch bar for the new hood opening, Brian tried to use the stock ’67 bar, but the swaged ends were backwards. A little bit of head scratching and rummaging through the spare parts bin netted this custom bar fabricated from a section of the ’67 bar and a section from a ’69 Mustang bar.
18. One final check was made to ensure the latch, hood latch catch bar, the secondary catch, and the secondary catch release handle all fit together and functioned as originally designed.
19. All that’s left to do is route and install the release cable to the inside of the vehicle. While the installation actually routes from the dash to the latch, we are following the routing from the latch to the dash in these last few photos. Here, the cable is connected to the latch assembly just before the cable cover is reinstalled.
20. From the hood latch assembly, the cable routes to the driver’s front fender where Brian has drilled a hole in the inner fender just above the headlight bucket with a step-bit, and then installed a grommet to secure the cable in the hole.
21. The cable is then routed rearward to the cowl side panel (clamps will secure the cable under the fender to prevent it rubbing on the suspension or tire) where a second hole is drilled for the same size grommet to allow the release cable to pass through.
22. Lastly, the hood release cable housing end with integral bracket is secured to the bottom of the ’67’s dash structure.