David Proctor
November 1, 1996
Photos By: Jim Smart

Step By Step

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First, remove the plastic seat pivot cover, and pull the cotter pin from the pivot pin.
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Next, remove the seat-latch lever and escutcheon.
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Seat-track mechanisms are next. Four Phillips-head machine screws hold the tracks in place.
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Seat-back support bumpers are secured with Phillips-head screws.
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The seat-back latch is anchored with two large countersink Phillips-head screws, as shown. A #3 Phillips has the bite necessary to loosen these.
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Inner seat-back pivot covers are secured with one Phillips screw each.
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A large common screwdriver is used to pry the seat-back pivot arm away from the pivot pin. Lift the seat back from the seat base.
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Hog rings are removed around the perimeter with diagonal cutting pliers or standard pliers, as shown. In this photo, we're removing the hog rings that retain the wire listing inside the upholstery around the inside of the seat base.
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This is the seat-back pivot pin (arrow). A noteworthy suggestion is to closely inspect this pin during reupholstering because it was the topic of a Ford recall in 1978. It can shear, causing the occupant to fall into the rear seat and lose control of the vehicle. If in doubt, visit a fabrication or welding shop that can replace the pin.
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When Karl Eisleben pealed back the original upholstery, the manufacturer's information was written inside.
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The seat-back latch mechanism gets a few shots of WD-40 to improve function. White grease is also a good lubricant to use here if WD-40 isn't available.
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Both 1967 and 1968 Interior Decor Group (Deluxe) seat backs employ medallions, which are held in place with backing plates that are retained with tinnerman’s nuts. Simply measure the braking plates’ location on the original upholstery...
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...then apply these measurements to the new upholstery.
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Virginia Classic Mustang supplied us with new seat buns that will give the seat bottoms a firm support.
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Find the upholstery's center, then mark the center, as shown. This is a very important step and is critical to the proper centering of the upholstery.
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Feed the new listing wire into the new upholstery, as shown. Coat-hanger wire is an excellent substitute if you're caught on a Sunday without a source for new listing.
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After we have hogringed the perimeter of the seat center in place, it's time to pull the outboard segments over the edges for hogringing.
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Now that we have pulled the outer segment tight, it's time to hogring from the center outward.
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This stage isn't simple. Heat from a hair dryer or heat gun is necessary to soften the vinyl, therefore making it easier to pull tight. Be very careful not to overheat the vinyl.
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Inboard segments are hogringed, as shown. Note the use of hogring pliers, available from any upholstery supply shop.
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Perimeter listings are hogringed once the upholstery is pulled tight.
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The seat-back pivot pin is carefully exposed with a razor blade. Carefully split the vinyl around the pin.
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With our seat tracks cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease, we are ready for installation. With both tracks installed, adjust the center cable to a point where both tracks unlock together when the seat-adjustment lever is moved. Begin the adjustment process with both tracks at the same ends of their travel.
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Install the seat back by slipping the pivot arm over the pin with the washer positioned, as shown. Install the cotter pin.
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With the seat pivot covers installed along with the seat-back release latch and seat-back cover, our Shelby bucket seat is ready for installation.
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Rear-seat upholstery installation is easy. Slip the listing into the new upholstery, as shown.
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With our center listings hogringed, we're ready to pull the outboard upholstery over the edges for the remainder of the hogrings.
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Pull the edges underneath, as shown, and hogring in place.
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A good practice is to hogring from the center outward. Pull each segment underneath, and hogring from the inside out.
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Our completed rear seat looks terrific, thanks to Virginia Classic Mustang. Now we're ready for installation.

It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the task of reupholstering your Mustang’s or Cougar’s bucket seats. Like welding or painting, this seems like a job best left to professionals. However, Karl and Diane Eisleben of St. Louis aren’t restoration professionals, yet they were inclined to tackle their ´68 Shelby GT500’s worn-out interior. The result is impressive. First, the Eislebens looked to Virginia Classic Mustang for easy-to-install upholstery kits for vintage Mustangs. These high-quality upholstery kits arrived ready to install. All the Eislebens had to source were the hog rings, the necessary tools, and some free time on a Saturday afternoon. They did it, and so can you.