Modified Mustangs & FordsHow To Interior Electrical
How to Wire Vintage Ford Racers - Race Circuits
Keep your race car wiring simple with Painless Performance
5 We determined one of the best locations for quick and easy fuse/relay access would be the glovebox area. Using a section of stainless sheet from another project we used our Eastwood sheetmetal brake to fabricate a U-shaped bracket to sit behind the glovebox door.
6 The stainless sheet mocked up behind the glovebox door shows roughly how we plan to mount the fuse/relay block. The glovebox catch interferes with fitment however, but we have a plan.
7 A quick pass with our Miller plasma cutter makes the necessary clearance for the glovebox latch.
8 Once the necessary clearance was made for the glovebox latch the panel was bead blasted for a nice satin finish and secured using some existing holes in the dash structure.
9 The fuse/relay panel is then installed to the fabricated mount via the two attaching screws used for the panel’s metal backing (which was removed for the mounting shown here).
10 Using a loaner aluminum racing seat similar to what will be in the car Rusty positioned himself in his normal driving position so that the rollbar mounted switch panel’s position could be determined.
11 A quick indexing mark with a silver Sharpie was made while Rusty held the mounting box in his preferred location.
12 The rollbar mounting box includes several hose clamp slots to allow the box to be mounted to various diameter tubing. The box is also outfitted with wire pass-through openings on each surface. All holes were plugged with the included plastic plugs except for the right side opening, which we installed the included grommet into, as can be seen here.
13 As noted earlier, hose clamps are not included. However, the mounting box does not utilize any special clamp requirements, so your traditional worm drive hose clamps that are found at any parts store (and you probably have several in the drawer of your toolbox) can be used. Note the lip on the mounting face of the box that the switch panel hooks into should be at the top.
14 The switch panel comes pre-wired from Painless Performance, finishing a good portion of the wiring job for you. Simply pass the unterminated harness end through the grommet and feed the wiring through until the switch panel can be seated and secured with the included mounting screws.
15 Using some of the wiring kit’s tie wraps the harness from the switch panel is secured to the rollbar top hoop and then down the vertical bar toward the glovebox. These are “sacrificial” tie-wraps that are simply used for rough-in, as we will be covering all wiring with wire wrap.
16 The loose fuse/relay panel wiring is roughed in next. Here we’ve sorted the wiring as to its routing in the chassis. The wiring over the door jamb will route forward to the engine bay, the wiring lying over the door bar will go to the trunk area, and the wiring in the middle is extra accessory circuits we’re not wiring at this time.
17 Working with the rear harness first the wires are routed through the cowl side area into the door sill trough and to the rear quarter panel area. A body plug was removed and one of the Painless wire grommets fitted to pass the wiring through the inner structure and on to the trunk.
18 At the rear of the car the wiring is cut to length for its intended circuit (taillights, fuel pump, ground, and hot lead from the battery). Here the hot lead is cut to length, a ring terminal fitted, and shrink wrap sealing the end. This will go to the battery cut-off switch.
19 After completing the rear circuits it was time to wrap them. The wire wrap installs much easier if you purchase the Painless Performance tools. The plastic tools make the job simple and stress-free. Start by placing the wires to be wrapped in the center of the tool as shown.
20 Rotate the tool’s sleeve to “lock in” the wire bundle. This will allow the tool to be pulled along the length of the harness without popping off of the wiring.
21 Start the wire wrap over the orange “tail” on the tool at one end of the harness and ensure you have the first few inches of harness properly covered. Pull the tool along the harness while keeping your finger loosely over the orange “tail” and the tool will split the wire wrap to allow the harness to drop right into it.
22 Included in the wire wrap kit are shrink wrap and self-vulcanizing tape. The shrink wrap is perfect for wire ends and to keep the wire wrap from fraying, but for connectors that are too big for shrink wrap, or to secure wire “tape outs” and to prevent the wire pulling out of the wrap the self-vulcanizing tape is the perfect answer. Give it a nice pull as you wrap it around itself and it will vulcanize to its own surface for a strong seal.