Muscle Mustangs & Fast FordsHow To Engine
ProCharger’s Easy Bolt-On Blower Adds 58% More Power to the S550’s 3.7L
We will always love V-8–powered Mustangs for many reasons but mainly for the power. That was something you just couldn’t get very easily with fewer cylinders in days past, but things have changed quickly in the last few years. It used to be that small-displacement engines were great daily drivers for their fuel economy but would always be limited in performance because they just weren’t really intended to make big numbers, and they couldn’t make those numbers without a lot of work. That is not the case anymore.
Now the base 3.7L V-6 makes the same horsepower the beloved 4.6L 3V did in the GT, and is capable of handling much more than that. All while keeping that low V-6 price point and insurance (and mileage, if you can drive it kindly). Well, 300 is good, but the GT is now 435 hp. Not a problem. Since Ford carried over the trusty and robust 3.7L to the S550, ProCharger did some retooling to its 2010-2014 kit to accommodate the new chassis layout. The R&D results produced a supercharger kit that takes the 3.7L into GT territory and beyond with only about five to seven hours of your time and zero permanent modifications to the car.
The H.O Intercooled system for 3.7L Ti-VCT Mustangs utilizes ProCharger’s proven and self-contained P-1SC-1 head unit with CNC billet aluminum mounting brackets, six larger high-volume fuel injectors, tuning, and all necessary supercharger and intercooler tubes for installation with no major modifications to your car or engine. These systems are designed to work with stock cars or ones with cat-back exhaust systems.
Here is the really cool (and really crazy) part. The bolt-on power gains on pump gas are 58 percent at just 8 psi! That’s just a few clicks less than 400 rwhp on autos, and over 400 rwhp on sticks from a V-6. Those numbers were V-8–only territory for street car just a handful of years ago.
If you decide to go really crazy down the road, just like the V-8 kits, ProCharger has larger head units to upgrade to for more power. The H.O. Intercooler is proven up to 800-plus horsepower, and a larger 1,200hp intercooler is available for those guys building the most insane 3.7L out there.
To see exactly how it goes together and get verified numbers, we headed over to ProCharger’s headquarters as the company’s mechanics bolted the new system onto their 2015 test car.
01. We used to consider the V-6 Mustangs nothing more than commuter cars intended for good mileage, but now they are respectable powerplants packing 300 hp, which is the same output the V-8 4.6 GTs had from almost one liter less displacement. Technology is good.
Before you get started, make sure you have emailed the Original Backup tune file to firstname.lastname@example.org with your ProCharger serial number in the subject line to receive the new tune for your car. Next, yank fuse No. 49 for the fuel pump, and crank the engine over for about five seconds to purge the fuel rail pressure. Then drop the windows and disconnect the battery.
02. The factory air intake is the first component to be removed. The intake hoses will come off with a squeeze of the release tabs, and a 10mm bolt holds the airbox down. A 7mm socket will loosen the throttle-body clamp.
03. The factory coolant overflow tank needs to vacate its position not only to make the install easier but also to make room where the supercharger will sit.
04. A series of pushpins holds the radiator closeout panel in place; removing them is quick work with a flathead screwdriver.
05. The radiator upper mount on the driver side is removed to make room for the new coolant overflow tank.
06. We will happily trade the factory plastic bubble for this slick fabricated aluminum overflow tank any day. Plus, it fits into the tight location perfectly.
07. Next up, the factory throttle-body is pulled in prep for removing the intake.
08. We need to get to the injectors to swap them for higher volume versions, so the upper intake manifold needs to come off on the 3.7L. Various sensors and wire harnesses need to be disconnected from the upper intake manifold; just carefully unplug and unclip them. An 8mm wrench will remove all of the retaining bolts and the bracket on the front side.
09. It is not a pretty thing, but the 3.7’s plastic upper intake does have the advantage of being very lightweight and easy to lift off the lower.
10. Now we can get to the factory fuel rail, which is held on with only four bolts. Even though the lines have been depressurized, keep a rag handy to catch any residual fuel.
11. Before you remove the rail, it is a good habit to cover the intake ports with tape. This ensures that no parts will be dropped into the engine on accident. Here you can see the high-flow, 52-lb/hr injectors in place and going back into their new home. A little oil on the O-rings helps them slide in easily.
12. Now we can drop the upper intake back on. Thanks to Ford using reusable gaskets, this is a very quick and easy job. When reinstalling the intake manifold, torque the fasteners in the correct sequence (shown in the install manual) to 89 lb-ft. Then tighten each fastener, in sequence, an additional 45 degrees.
13. The factory MAP sensor (located on the passenger side rear of the intake) cannot read the boost pressures we need to send to the ECU, so it is removed and set aside.
14. ProCharger provides a plug-and-play MAP sensor and harness that will read boost to the ECU and make install easy, no wiring needed.
15. To make room for the supercharger, a billet throttle-body spacer is provided and includes seals. Be sure the O-ring tab slot on the spacer points up.
16. So much of this install is about making room for the supercharger, which is why the coolant lines need a little rearranging and replumbing. Disconnect the main hose and drain the coolant into a bucket, and simply refill the system after the new hoses are installed.
17. The brass T-fitting is connected to the lower bung on the water neck and connects a metal heater hose located on the passenger side of the engine and to the hose that connects to the new overflow jug we mounted earlier.
18. ProCharger supplies a bolt-on supercharger crank pulley that provides a direct drive for the supercharger with a dedicated belt. A shorter belt means more traction and grip on the pulley. The crank pulley locks itself to the factory pulley by way of a cam lock design. With the cams loose, slide the pulley onto the balancer, making sure the cam locks are aligned properly between the factory balancer spokes, and rotate it clockwise until the cam locks stop it.
19. The supercharger will mount to this bracket to the timing cover. Standoff spacers will align it properly for the spring and fixed idler pulleys that will be installed. We went for the optional polished finish on this system.
20. Now the real meat of the system: the P-1SC-1 head unit, with its billet impeller and billet gear case, and self-contained oiling. For this car we optioned for the helical upgrade for quieter operation, for the ultimate sleeper status.
21. Time for the blower! Make sure to fill the head unit with one 6-ounce bottle of the supplied blower oil. The belt may be easier to install if you slip the belt onto the ProCharger pulley before you install any fasteners. Tighten the belt by rotating the brass tensioner collar counterclockwise until the first set of etched marks on the tensioner body align.
22. We can now replace the factory throttle-body. We had kept it off just to make the head unit install easier.
23. We are done with the big stuff under the hood. Now it is time to remove the bumper cover to install the intercooler. Fortunately there are just a few bolts in the inner fender, along the grille, and some retaining the air block out plate on the bottom. The foglights and turn signals must be disconnected as well.
24. ProCharger’s instructions give detailed locations of everything retaining the bumper cover. Once they are all loose, it will slide off easily when it is pulled forward.
25. The intercooler brackets slide over the end of the bumper to frame bolts on the back side of the bumper. Thread the supplied nuts with washers onto the bumper bolts. Leave the intercooler bracket hardware loose until all hardware has been installed and the intercooler has been adjusted. Adjust the intercooler as high and as far forward before tightening.
26. All said and done for the intercooler. She fits like a glove, with no trimming or cutting to factory parts.
27. Time for tubing. To make the boot install easier, just spray a little glass cleaner on the ports.
28. The charge tube leading from the head unit to the intercooler has the bypass valve installed on it. It will install with a 3-inch coupler, and the bypass valve tube will route toward the passenger front tire. A vacuum manifold taps into the brake booster hoses and will also be routed to it.
29. The cool side of the intercooler plumbing snakes up to the throttle-body with two large 90-degree elbows. Make sure all of the T-bolt clamps are tight as you go.
30. The PCV system is very straightforward and can be installed in moments, with this check valve added to the system to ensure that boost doesn't make it into the crank case.
31. The last part of the puzzle is to install the fresh air intake to the supercharger. This inlet features an extremely high flow capability, so it is ready for big-power applications well above the base system offering.
32. That’s it! Time to reinstall the bumper and get this boosted V-6 ready for the road.
33. Now this is a clean and professional-looking install! If it weren’t for the polished finish, it would look like a factory option—one with 58 percent more power!
34. It is subtle, but when gearheads see the intercooler hiding behind the grille, they’ll know this V-6 Mustang is packing something extra.
2015 MUSTANG 3.7 P-1SC-1 VS STOCK
So exactly how much was the install worth? check out the dyno graph. We went from a baseline of 243 hp and 240 lb-ft of torque to 386 and 353, respectively. That’s an easy gain of 143 hp and 113 lb-ft!