Michael Johnson
Associate Editor, 5.0 Mustangs & Super Fords
February 3, 2014

20. Once D2 and I were done assembling the top end of the engine, we took the car and the engine up to David Piercey’s Mustang Performance just north of Tampa, Florida, to install the new engine. Dave Piercey’s (D1) idea was to drop the engine out from the bottom, leave the K-member in the same spot, install everything onto the new engine, place it right back onto the K-member, and lower the car down onto the new engine. We made sure to mark where the K-member was on the shop floor in case anything moved, but we had no such issues.

21. Of course, a new engine needs new plugs. We chose Motorcraft items, going with Trick Flow- recommended SP-432 plugs. D1 arranged a “clean table” for new or clean parts so we would know what was left to install. Keeping track of new or clean parts makes it easier to track your progress, as well as identify what you may need to finish the job.

22. If you caught our Bullitt’s exhaust install in the Jan. ’13 issue (pg. 96), you’ll know our tuner James Gordon noted our Bullitt’s alternator giving up the ghost in the upper rpm range. We didn’t want that to happen with the new engine so we called up PA Performance for an 130-amp, 4G unit ($289), along with the company’s Power Pack kit. PA sent the Power Pack kit just in case we were still short of voltage once everything was installed. However, when all was said and done, the 130-amp 4G alternator was just what the doctor ordered to cure our upper- rpm voltage issues.

23. Once everything was at Mustang Performance (D1’s shop), we had to transfer the wiring from the old engine to our new 5.0-liter stroker engine. Here D1 (left) and D2 (right) are transferring the old engine’s harness to the new engine.

24. For a clutch, we chose to go with Centerforce’s DYAD dual disc set-up ($1,495). Like the fuel injectors, this clutch is probably way too much for this engine’s power output, but there are certain things you only want to do once, and a clutch is one of those items. The DYAD clutch is capable of handling way more power thanks to its floating, dual-disc design. There was increased pedal effort, and the clutch is unlike any stock clutch we’ve used, but the DYAD clutch brings promises of greater longevity and quiet operation—and should a power adder ever find its way onto the engine, we won’t have to swap out the clutch.

25. As you can see, D1 has installed the flywheel, the drive disc, the floater, and the floating disc. Even though it looks intimidating, installing the DYAD is straightforward and easy. You’ll spend more time admiring the clutch than actually installing it.

26. The moment of truth. D1 and D2 move the 5.0-liter stroker engine into place with the transmission installed onto the engine. We drop the engine onto the Bullitt’s Maximum Motorsports K-member, get the engine hoist out of the way, and drop the car down on the new combination.

27. D1 finishes up the clutch by installing the clutch cover, and following the torque specs, and sequence. And yes, we had to remove the passenger-side header in order to mate the transmission with the engine and make it easier to install the starter. Notice the header gaskets on the ground, too. We chose to use factory gaskets for the BBK headers.

28. With the engine installed in the car, we raised it up to do the exhaust, which consisted of installing the BBK Performance X-shape crossover pipe ($179), and connecting it to the car’s existing Flowmaster after-cat exhaust. Since my Bullitt has a Maximum Motorsports Grip Box, we did have to remove the car’s torque arm in order to do this, but of course, if your Mustang isn’t so equipped, you can install the engine and transmission in the same manner as we did. The oxygen sensors you see hanging will be connected to BBK Performance extension harnesses to mate them with the factory harness.

29. With the engine in the car and running, it was time to add the Bullitt’s new BBK Performance fuel pump ($289.99). D1 wanted to make sure the engine was in good shape before going back down below to install the fuel pump. BBK Performance’s fuel pump is a direct-replacement for the factory pump, and is available for your ’98-’04 Mustang V-6, and GT, and ’98-’01 Cobra. It’s a 300-lph fuel pump designed to drop right into place of the factory fuel pump module.

30. Installing the BBK Performance 300-lph fuel pump was without question the easiest fuel-pump install ever. The hardest part was dropping and reinstalling the tank itself. Otherwise, you release the tabs on the stock fuel pump module, pull it out, and drop the BBK pump module in place. It really is that easy, and our Bullitt will have plenty of fuel for the new 5.0-liter stroker engine. 5.0