Elisa Coon
January 24, 2014

All aboard the Pony express to boost town! Over the course of the last four stories, Team C&C has eclipsed all of the previous goals set for our Coyote build-up—12s, 11s, and even 10s came relatively easily—and now the hunt to make this a 9-second TVS-powered Coyote is imminent.

After recovering from the blow of replacing the factory engine due to an oil-pump failure in our brand-new ’13 5.0 Roush Phase Two (PN 421390) blown Stang, we were hungry for a 9-second timeslip. For those who might want to push the limits on your 5.0 and don’t want to potentially experience the total carnage we did, learn from us and invest in billet oil pump gears. That stated, our GT now has a 5.0 FRPP Aluminator engine, and it’s time to shoot for maximum power and 9-second e.t.’s, which would be pretty amazing from our nearly 4,000-pound, stock suspension, street-driven boost machine.

To recap, there was a small loss of horsepower and boost when we swapped from the factory engine to the lower (9.5:1 versus 11.0:1) compression FRPP Aluminator (PN M6007-A50SC), but we did gain in the torque department over the stocker. The final dyno numbers were a respectable 579 rwhp and 515 lb-ft of torque with a 72mm pulley (approximately 11 psi).

We brought our Steed to BTS Transmissions in Lead Hill, Arkansas, for a Precision Industries custom torque converter install, and with a fresh retune by Jon Lund of Lund Racing, we headed to the track. After the new 5.0 and converter swap, we were still sitting in the 10s with a best of 10.79 at 128.5 mph (with a 1.49 60-foot on stock suspension in 2,300 density altitude conditions) in far from ideal air temps.

Boost-Friendly Bolt-On Mods

We wanted to be as quick as possible while maintaining the factory suspension and exhaust, but we realized the stock exhaust was holding us back. The quiet deception of our Stallion was such an awesome way to sneak attack unsuspecting ricers, plus installing headers is a huge undertaking, especially when trying to install them without a lift. Don’t get me wrong—we would love to have a set of long-tube headers to open the lungs of our purebred, but at this point, we want to see what gains can be seen without the cost and effort of headers.

After some research, we decided to remove the factory cats and install MBRP Performance Exhaust’s stainless steel, off-road/catless, H-style mid-pipe (PN C7262409) with a 3-inch, stainless, after-cat exhaust (PN S7258409). We tore the box open like a couple of kids on Christmas day to find a high-quality stainless system that was sure to help our Coyote breathe better, while also sounding so rowdy that any GM within a mile would run and hide. We jumped right into the DIY installation of the shiny set of pipes.

The exhaust upgrade was done with my husband, JD, on his back in our home garage, while I supervised and made memes on my iPhone of mullet-wearing Camaro owners—just kidding. The installation procedure is mostly self-explanatory, but it’s nicely outlined in the supplied instruction manual. However, we did take some notes in order to help our fellow enthusiasts save a few steps.

After the car is on jackstands, it’s best to remove the rear wheels, unbolt some of the rear suspension, and drop the rear end down to remove the factory over the axle pipes and mufflers. Trust us on this—we learned the hard way. You’ll want to unbolt the rear shocks and rear sway bar, allowing you to remove the rear springs, thus, making removal of the over-the-axle pipes easier. At this point, we decided to remove the factory driveshaft and replace it with an aftermarket aluminum, one-piece unit we bought used on an automotive Internet forum.

We weighed the stock exhaust and the MBRP system to see just how much of a difference there was between them. I could hardly believe how much weight we dropped—over 35 pounds. Overall, the fit and quality of the system is top notch and shedding poundage is a win in our book. We also shed an impressive 17.5 pounds by swapping to the lightweight driveshaft. Every little bit counts!

Upon initial start-up, it cackled in bold racer fashion and I didn’t immediately love the sound. My covert Corvette-eater was no longer covert. Point blank, it was loud, but the aggressive rumble would be welcome at the track. That being said, it only took a trip around the block before I realized just how sick our five-oh sounded. At idle, it isn’t too wild, but once the rpm is ramped up, it has a wicked growl and I was getting mean-mugged by every Mopar in town. Mission of awesomeness accomplished.

1. Here is the factory exhaust, which has taken us into the 10s.
2. We began by removing factory mufflers.
3. Then we removed the exhaust clamps from the stock H-style mid-pipe.
4. Removing rear springs allows removal of the stock over-the-axle pipes.
5. Here is the heavy, two-piece factory driveshaft.
6. Here’s a look at the stock pinion flange next to the supplied Axle Exchange pinion flange.
7. Using a 22mm wrench, we removed the oxygen sensors.
8 These pipes make up the factory exhaust.
9. We slipped in the 4-inch, aluminum Axle Exchange driveshaft. We purchased this on a local forum slightly used for a good price.
10. In went the MBRP off-road H-pipe …
11. … and then the over-the-axle pipes.