Jim Smart
December 19, 2006

Driveline yokes present their own set of challenges because there are several variations. It is up to the informed enthusiast to choose the right one. The slip-yoke slides back and forth at the transmission's tailshaft, hence the name. There are two basic slip-yoke types (although there are many variations of the two types): 28-spline for small-block transmissions such as the C4, Top Loader, T-10, and T5; the 32-spline (larger) for big-block applications such as the C6, big-block Top Loader, T45 (if you're running a Modular V-8), and Super T10. The factory slip-yokes are made of cast iron and machined steel alloy.

When you are pumping up the power, you're going to need more yoke and the corresponding universal joint. When horsepower rises above 500, a 1310 joint will not stand up to the torque. And because we like to see a measure of safety demonstrated here, we suggest stepping up to a 1330 or 1350 when horsepower goes above 400. With this kind of increase in power, we suggest going with one of Inland Empire's CNC machined, heat-treated forgings with the quick-release cap design for easy maintenance. These 1350 Quick Release yokes will withstand brutal amounts of power. If you are planning huge gains in power, you will want this yoke, along with 1350 joints.

Inland Empire Driveline offers a couple of differential pinion yokes for high-performance Ford applications. The 1350 steel pinion yoke, like the 1350 Quick Release, is designed to take a lot of punishment. a 7075 T-6 aluminum pinion yoke (1310 and 1350) is also available.

When you study the slip-yoke and pinion-yoke part numbers, choose your yoke based on the transmission type, differential type, and the universal joint you intend to use. The universal joint number is incorporated into the yoke part number. So is your transmission type.