Mark Houlahan
Brand Manager, Mustang Monthly
February 5, 2014

CJ's rear disc brake kit, PN DBR21, rings the register for only $427.99! The kit will bolt on to any Ford 8-inch rear axle or 9-inch "small bearing" rear axle, which means it will fit Mustang, Fairlane, Comet, Torino, Falcon, Maverick, and others with these axle housings. The kit includes 11.25-inch vented rotors, single-piston calipers loaded with brake pads, DOT rubber brake hoses, caliper-to-axle housing mounting brackets, a pair of parking brake cables, and all required mounting hardware/spacers. All parts are brand new and ready to install right out of the box. If you're looking for something with a little more flash, CJ's offers optional kits that include drilled/slotted rotors and powdercoated calipers in red, black, or natural that are still less than $500 for the complete kit! Note that this kit will usually require 15-inch or larger wheels, which isn't normally a problem with our readers, but we did want to note it.

13. Follow the spacer installation with the caliper mounting bracket on each side and secure with the included flat washers and nuts.
14. The rotors in the base kit we’re installing here are solid-face vented 11.25-inch discs (zinc-plated rotors that are slotted and drilled are optional). Some axle shafts might require the flange to be turned down on a lathe to clear the ID of the rotor hub, but in our installation there was plenty of room for the rotors to slip right on.
15. The loaded calipers slide over the caliper mounting brackets and are then secured by the included caliper slide pins. Install the lower pins first, but leave them loose enough for the caliper to be moved as needed to line up the upper slide pin and install it through the bracket, brake pads, and caliper casting. Once both pins are in place they can be tightened down.
16. To determine if the medium spacers are going to work for your particular installation, inspect the brake pad to rotor spacing by looking at the rotor’s edge straight on for each side of the axle. If the gaps on both sides of the rotors are the same, the medium spacers can be retained. If the gaps between the pads and rotors are not the same, the calipers will need to be moved in or out by using the longer or shorter spacers, respectively.
17. Brake hoses are included with the kit (rubber standard, optional braided stainless steel) and feature a banjo-style fitting at the caliper end and a standard 3⁄16-24 inverted flare at the opposite end. When installing the banjo end of the hose, be certain that the included copper sealing washers are used, one for each side of the banjo fitting, as shown here.
18. Route the flexible brake hoses as needed to clear any suspension or exhaust parts so that a location can be determined for the included brake hose mounting brackets. These two small brackets will require welding to the axle tube. We simply shortened the brake hard line and connected the brake hoses, as shown here, to determine final location for welding. If you do not have access to a welder, you can secure the lines with tie wraps for a drive to your favorite exhaust shop for a quick hit with a MIG welder.
19a. The rear disc brake kit includes a pair of parking brake cables. Depending upon your OE cable type and routing, these new cables (or your originals) may require rerouting or to be shortened. The folks at The Right Stuff Detailing even offer to exchange cables for different lengths (according to the instructions).
19b. The cable attachment to the parking brake mechanism is a simple two-step procedure; pull the cable through the bracket and return spring and the push the cable down into the parking brake actuating arm. We found that a small screwdriver will aid in pushing the cable into place.
20. Once you have wrapped your rear disc brake conversion, there is a small trick to bleeding the rear calipers. Due to the caliper’s casting design (these are not Ford calipers), the bleeder screws do not point completely level as installed, trapping a bit of air in the piston chamber. You will have to unbolt the caliper and pull it back as shown to raise the bleeder screw location and rid the caliper of all trapped air.
21a. Using the left rear caliper as an example, we have the caliper positioned in our first photo as it would be installed on the caliper mounting bracket. You can see how the bleeder points downward, leaving a potential air pocket in the caliper casting that would lead to a soft pedal and spongy brakes.
21b. In the second photo, we have repositioned the caliper for bleeding the brakes (as we show from the front in photo 20 at left) and you can see how the caliper’s bleeder is now positioned to allow any trapped air to easily escape during the brake bleeding process.
22. As noted in our opening text, the rear disc brake conversion kit does not support 14-inch wheels. The 15-inch wheels are considered a minimum for the conversion kit. The owner of this ’67 fastback hasn’t decided on the wheel and tire package yet, but we dropped this 17-inch American Racing Shelby wheel over the disc conversion with no issues and the gray centers really worked well with the bright red paint on the car.