Kristian Grimsland
Associate Editor, Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
January 11, 2014
11. Here’s a look at our suspension after the install.
12. Making our way up front, Steve began by removing the wheels, followed by the front brakes and rotors, and then the springs.
13. Using a ball-joint press, Steve removed both factory ball joints and replaced them with Steeda’s X2 ball joints (PN 555-8101).
13b. Using a ball-joint press, Steve removed both factory ball joints and replaced them with Steeda’s X2 ball joints (PN 555-8101).
14. He then installed the new Sport springs.
15. Steeda supplied us with a set of its polished four-bolt caster camber plates (PN 555-8095, $262.45). When installing, it’s required to drill a 3/8-inch hole for the fourth stud on the plates. Here they are installed.
15b. Steeda supplied us with a set of its polished four-bolt caster camber plates (PN 555-8095, $262.45). When installing, it’s required to drill a 3/8-inch hole for the fourth stud on the plates. Here they are installed.
16. Steve inserted the strut mount bushing onto our new front struts, and then installed them.
16b. Steve inserted the strut mount bushing onto our new front struts, and then installed them.
17. Changing the ride height of your Mustang can cause bumpsteer. In order to correct this, we added Steeda’s bumpsteer kit (PN 555-8104). This will allow us to alter the height of the outer tie-ride relative to the steering rack.
18. Steve then installed the new sway bar. Notice the difference in size in comparison to the factory piece. Steeda’s sway bars have billet ends to increase strength.
19. Steve then double-checked the pinion angle to make sure it was to spec of negative 2 degrees.

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