Steve Turner
Former Editor, 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
October 1, 2004
Photos By: Courtesy Of ATI-Procharger

With the coast clear of ductwork, the next step is to drain about a gallon of coolant into a pan and remove the radiator hoses and coolant transfer tubes. Pop off the serpentine belt and get the engine ready for the blower brackets. This entails removing four bolts-one lower alternator bolt, two timing chain cover bolts, and one idler bolt. These are clearly called out in the instruction manual, and all are easy to access. In these four spots, install the blower mounting studs and bolts. ATI recommends using thread locker on these fasteners so they won't back out.

Slide the blower mounting bracket over the studs and bolt it on. It sandwiches the accessory drive between itself and the timing chain cover, so you'll want to install the longer, kit-supplied serpentine belt before installing the additional idler on the blower mounting bracket. The additional idler is placed between the alternator pulley and the supercharger pulley to ensure good belt wrap on the supercharger pulley.

With the belt loosely routed and the new idler installed, it's time to drop on the P-1SC head unit. This blower is self-contained, so there's no reason to puncture your oil pan. But it is shipped dry, so make sure to add the included ATI lubricant to the blower after it is installed. Once the car is up and running, change the blower oil with every other oil change-in other words, every 6,000 miles.

Here's the blower installed and the belt in place. The next step is to route the blower discharge tubing between the accessory drive and the radiator to the intercooler, which mounts in front of the radiator. From there, route the tubing into the passenger-side inner fenderwell. This is where the factory mass-air meter is added to the discharge tubing with a supplied adapter. The last run of tubing takes the intercooled boost from the air meter to the throttle body via the hole in the inner fender once used by the factory airbox. It sounds scary, but there's a nice diagram in the instruction manual laying it all out for you. With all the discharge ducting in place, install the short inlet duct with air filter, then plumb the bypass valve and tap it into a manifold vacuum source. The last steps are installing the new coolant transfer tubing and trimming the radiator hoses to clear the discharge tubing. Tighten it all up, fill up the coolant, pop in the supplied computer chip, and fire her up.

Here's the finished P-1SC installation on Athena's Mach 1. Look just under the scoop and you can see the new coolant transfer tubing and radiator hose routing. Athena had yet to install the Shaker Interface Duct, which routes air from the Shaker scoop to the general vicinity of the blower kit's air inlet. Thus, the Shaker on Athena's ride is kept around for little more than good looks. But once she opens the hood, the polished ProCharger certainly enhances the looks, and we know it helps more than a little getting air into the engine. The ProCharger Mach 1 kit will set you back about $4,596 and promises a 55- to 60-percent power gain, all while packing a three-year warranty.

Of course, with a magazine audience on hand and Athena wanting to have the swiftest but safest possible Mach, the ATI crew decided to step up the injectors to 42-lb/hr units to give the car plenty of cushion for the 9 psi produced by the standard 8-pound kit. To install the injectors, the factory upper intake was removed to make room to move the fuel rails out of the way and drop in the new squirters. The only change made to the chip calibration-included with the standard kit-was to reprogram the fuel curve for the larger injectors.